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| Farmers Lab Advanced Theories and Techniques - Got a few grows under your belt and want to discuss more advanced theories and techniques? Discuss these matters here. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Electrician or equivalent would be nice...:)
greetings all
new to these parts, doing a run at a mate's flat and was wondering a few querys: 1.How many watts are safe to be plugged into one surge protector power strip with 12 outlets? 2. what is the difference between a mogul base and a medium base? 3. is 87f too hot for a flowering sativa? also, was wondering opinions on possible co2 for one scrogged plant 3 weeks flipped? cheers all! ![]() EDIT~ i should note, while im not a bloody american, the wiring is north american/US Last edited by shockerr; 01-11-2008 at 02:31 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Thank you slunt.
I realize 87 seems a bit warm, but i should add that there are no obvious signs of heat stess, no burnt tips or yellowing...(except in some older foliage which is due to lack of nutrients, i believe...i have had a hard time finding FF tigerbloom, which is the fert. i want to use for flower, and have been adding organic "super phosphate" pellets to the soil, just till i find the tigerbloom.as well as recently adding some organic liquid plant food made of worm poop) the only signs i say could possibly be heat stress are the stretched pistils...they are very pronounced, but not dying at all, thought it could just be a pheno thing....as i said my plant is a almost pure sativa with haze genetics somewhere along the line. sorry dont do piccys. My hand is warm when under my lights (which are 450w now, but i plan on adding about 175w more during this next week.) but do not feel "uncomfortably warm". put it this way, i wouldnbt be worrying about heat at all if my little digital therm lying on my screen didnt often go over 90f. moving lights away is not an option, as they are already ~1ft away and i feel any further will be bad for the plants light consumption. Before adding more lighting i plan to add one more fan directly at a bulb, to reduce heat....my mate is also unlatching the windows to his room and turning the electric room heater down to 55 more often.. in conclusion of all that rambling, heres what it lead up to: HOW CAN I GET LOWER TEMPS?????? while i dont think the amount of heat i have now will kill the plants, i feel it will deminish potency, and yeild. i also believe, from what i've read, that growth will be better with lower temps than i have now, and some minor fungus and pest issues will probably go away with temps a little lower. And i don't know anything about wire guage, my lamps and ballasts are wire directly by fairly thin, normal household extension cord wire...have been fine so far, my largest bulb wattage is 150, and i have tested a 150 wired this way for about 5 months and no problem, now i have 3 150s and am adding a 70 and a 100....while they are all using the extension cord wire, they are all plugged into the surge protector heavy duty power strip with a max load of 1875w, im only using about 800 with all exhaust applications iuncluded. Also i think im gonna do the yeist and sugar thing for co2. thank you. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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thanks, slunt...
any tips on when to reverse,(what time of day to make the switch, should i go straight 24hr dark or 24hr light when making the switch?) thanks a lot. also, how bad would having temps in high 80s affect my yeild just incase this wont work when it gets warmer out? cheers |
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#6 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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UNRELATED, BUT URGENT QUESTION:
i am having some severe yellowing and dying of older foliage which is under the canopy, everything above seems fine, some nice frosting going on...i (mis)diagnosed the issue as a nutrient def, but after seeing the problem get worse day by day, even while adding nutes, i believe this problem to maybe be environmental? dont know...leaves just start yellowing rapidly, then crisping black(dying) at the points, rapidly..... leaves usually die in about 2-3 days....i have lost probably 10 or so leaves and counting...i realize this is normal later in flower, but i am not even finished with week 4....any suggestions? should i post somewhere else? I am also aware this may be due directly because they are under the canopy, lack of sunlight....right? however, i find it strange that some under the net which get more sun than others, die first...it seems everything directly under the screen is dying... thankz |
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#7 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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wow really?? nutrient burnnn? couldnt have imagined....did i mention she is on completely organic feed with just what ive added to the soil, hasnt receieved any liquid ferts yet, and she will always be organic...and like i said only nutes so far have been pellets you add to the soil mix....not very much either... i feel that it has more to do with being under the canopy, can i just remove all foliage under canopy, or will that hurt yeild, i still have much foliage above...stretching has about stopped.
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#8 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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i know some people just clip everything that doesnt make it past the net, should i do this? the only reason i havent yet, is because im afraid that whatever defeciency the plant has (you say it sounds like a burn, in my opinion that is not possible..) i feel like its trying to find that nutrient in every place it could be hiding, and i feel if i cut a leaf before that nutrient has been depleted, the plant will destroy other leaves trying to feed itself...see what i mean? i just dont want my buds to be affected... they are growing so nice and beautiful...many pistils, trichs forming rapidly, stretch has about stopped and the "buds" seem to swell pretty fast, cant wait to see true true buds, now all i see is white/creamy hairs covering some little sparkling balls of green.
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#9 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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I was initially going to say 100% no to spider mites, however after viewing your post, and running to go check on my baby, i think it might be a possibility, but still not likely. I inspected some of the under sides of the leaves; no moving bugs or anything, but on some of the leaves, there were a few tiny white spots, which you could tell were not part of the leaf...i took out my scope, looked and saw what i can only describe as white sand-looking granuals...not spherical like an egg, and almost the tint of a milky trich....but def. not a trichome. and as i said, these were just tiny dots on some leaves, spread apart....i crushed them with my finger and it didnt seem to do much....no web, no crawling bugs on foliage.
however, i have been battling fungus gnats for about a month now, i thought i won the war a few weeks back by putting on new top soil and doing a soil drench of k+neem and natural insecticidal soap, as the gnats disappeared for a few days, however there seems to be more now, quite a bit more....but i never see them on/near buds or foliage, just on the soil....i would love to hear of a way to take care of these bloody pests without costing a dime, but if it means the safety of my crop is in jepordy, price is not an issue... |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
Also, if pushing harvest back is the only option, how would this affect yield? I feel this should be in another thread, or maybe the thread title changed...i need as much professional help as possible. thank you, slunt for guiding me through this.... My leaves keep yellowing, more and more....the yellowing and dying off will soon get to my buds, in the name of cannabis everywhere, I'm begging you, Save My Stash!
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#11 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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After again re-examining the soil, i believe my yellowing is almost 100% due to pests in the soil....aside from gnats and gnat larvae, i have what i believe are spider mites....but only in the soil. I have looked over many of my leaves top and bottom, no signs of the mites anywhere on the leaves(other than yellowing) For some reason i feel that they dont know the plant is there...hah
I did a K+neem and insecticidal soil soak, hoping to drown the adults on top.... how much less yield you think? Ive got 450w hps over one scrogged sativa now, was hoping for a harvest of about 200g or so... This still has not affected appearance of the buds or surrounding foliage, and is still just everything under the screen my plant started from seed, not clone im hoping not to use harsh chemicals, i want organic as possible. if nutrients are being sucked away by pests at the roots, wouldnt it be a good idea to give more nutrients, as well??? thank you |
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#12 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Yes, i know to flush it..
I have done another soil drench of k+neem and insecticidal soap, hoping to drown all remaining adults, and hopefully some larvae... after the soil dries tomorrow, i will be adding sticky strips to stop the life cycle... when is the appropriate time to start a liquid fert schedule for flower?(such as tiger bloom, or another fert high in phosphate and carbs) I have been in flower for exactly 30 days, have about 45 more days to go(depending on trichs and hairs) and can i use molasses during flush, or sugar? or just straight h2o? Last edited by shockerr; 01-20-2008 at 04:42 PM. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Had a little problem yesterday...
drove over to my mate's flat only to find him not home, and the heater in his room up to 80...oh no! looked inside the box to see that it had reached 106f!!!! who knows how long it was that hot in there, but the lights had been on almost all day (8 hrs) the plant seemed fine, only noticable daMage(not even sure its damage) was some of the pistils had turned brown, not in one area just all around the scrog.... not anything serious.... i watered her, should it be fine, or do i need to worry? |
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#14 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Jan 2008
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also,
yesteday was the first time i've seen bud swelling at all....buds are now forming nicely, before was just pistils and trichs...could this be connected to the heat? and unfortunately....lea ves are still rapidly yellowing/dying.....pistils have began to brown but not horribly...have been giving some mild organic phosphates and all purpose....seems to slow yellowing, but not stop it.. bout 34 days left helllp thanx |
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#16 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
Join Date: Feb 2008
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electrician for hire does not want to know anything ; ) and as far as question about how many watts should be used on one power strip there should be a rating right on it somewhere as far as wattage the comment about #12 gauge wire is only partially corect the size wire of the power strip is only half the equation if your house is wired with #14 wire it doesnt matter what size wire your power strip uses if larger then #14 thats your bottleneck most residential only use #14 for most recepticles AND this is a big and the recepticle (outlet) you are plugging into is most likely part of a circuit that spans several outlets possibly upto 8 in one or 2 or possibly more bedrooms hallways etc so the outlet your plugging into may already be at 25, 50, 75% capacity the only real way to know short of looking thru your walls is to have a ampmeter on the wire where it first leaves the circuit breaker and I would not suggest this to anyone who does not know what they are doing. So back to the question we will assume you use #14 wire in a 15 amp circuit with no additional load E= IxR 15amps x 120volts = 1800 watts but you can only use 80% of that which even still would be high and I under no circumstances recomend using a power strip for any serious power usage they are meant for small appliances tvs vcrs which use minimal power so in short DO NOT USE POWERSTRIPS as they are only a good way to start a fire. located in ny long island if anyone needs any work done -sean
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