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Farmers Lab Advanced Theories and Techniques - Got a few grows under your belt and want to discuss more advanced theories and techniques? Discuss these matters here.

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Old 04-24-2012, 08:31 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Tamisium Extractors Model TE-175 Super Deluxe Package

I'm holding out for one of these personally.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:13 PM   #82 (permalink)
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ISO 2

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Last edited by mothernature; 04-25-2012 at 02:24 PM. Reason: No selling please
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:16 AM   #83 (permalink)
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^^^ Selling AIN'T allowed in these parts!!!
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:18 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Iso 2 Instructions

I have the instruction manual that has every detail for extraction and increase of potency for Weed. This is the original Owners manual. Quick Ref ( 4 drops per oz of product).

I had three of these units back in the Seventies and recently found the manual, too bad I no longer have a machine.

If there are any out there to be found would like to have one again as I had it down to a science.
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:38 PM   #85 (permalink)
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you should scan it and upload it! for science!
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:49 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Ring View Post
I have the instruction manual that has every detail for extraction and increase of potency for Weed. This is the original Owners manual. Quick Ref ( 4 drops per oz of product).

If there are any out there to be found would like to have one again as I had it down to a science.
Hey Chuck...Check out the post above Roach's. I think that dude may be able to help you out.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:01 AM   #87 (permalink)
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old and beat but still ticking

I started soxhletting pot way back, even before the Iso-2. The delightful series of paperbacks by Mary Jane Superweed set me off on the trail. I used a big pot with hot water and set a smaller pot inside it, riding on the water. Put your weed in the smaller pot with 2 - 4 cups of alchohol and seal a garbage bag to the top of the small pot. Start the water bath heating up and pile ICE in the middle of the garbage bag as it starts to puff up. BEWARE that you never let the ice get used up! The whole damn thing could explode because the bag is full of hot alchohol gas!!!! I had a number of scares where the bag started blowing up like a balloon. Of course you CAN regulate the temp of the water bath, but lower temps mean longer processing times.

Now, with that said... I bought my Iso-2 in 74 for just south of $200 - which was a hell of a lot of money then! Hell, you could buy a PILLOWCASE of black Louisiana weed for $100, and that was between 2 and 3 kilos, or 4 1/2 - 7 POUNDS for that $100! Ahhhh... those were the years! Years of being busted, going to jail for pot (?) and experimentation...

Anyway, my Iso is pretty beat up from 40 years of use, but it still works! For a long time there I stopped using it because weed was too damn expensive but then I decided to start growing my own and I became friends with my Iso again. STILL FUN!!!

A few tips though...

The basket WILL break. WFW (Wah F****** Wah) I replaced mine with a medium kitchen strainer - works great.

If you've never replaced the carbon (What carbon???) guess what - you'd better replace it now... If you EVER smell alchohol, your charcoal is dead. Go to the store, buy some activated carbon (charcoal) for an acquarium filter. Cut off the TOE ONLY of a pair of pantyhose. Pour 4 - 5 ounces in the toe and tie it like a sack. Put it in the 3rd or TOP chamber of the condenser (the thing that looks like 3 flying saucers stacked up). You're good to go now!

Something I've seen nobody say - anywhere!!! I received a letter from Thai Power in the 80's saying their experience was that ice is totally useless. It was as effective to use plain water, just keep the water tray full. They even said you could turn the temp up FULL and run with NO water if you wanted to. Doing that you'll lose more solvent, but BFD... So I NEVER use ice, but I do use water.

Frankly I never saw that much imprpvement from the acid... Why bother? The concentration factor was the greatest improvement.

Yeah, it does produce black sludge. No, I don't filter it to honey oil. Too much bullcrap! Here's a couple neat things you CAN do: powder some pot. Take some 6" broom straws, roll them in the oil, then roll them across the powdered weed, then roll them in the oil again then the powder again. Do this until they are about the thickness of a pencil. VOILA!!! THAI STICKS!!! and BOY do people love them!!! (get the money up front, dweeb!)

The other great thing is to take some WELL CLEANED pot and drip the oil onto it. This will make little "hash buds" - a drop of oil coated with weed. Man, that's good stuff!

Of course you CAN cook with the oil... Or take some flour and work it into the oil (to manke it hand-friendly) and make little balls a bit bigger than BB's. These can be a LOT of fun to eat but damn sure don't smoke them. Flour is damned NASTY when you smoke it! Oh, and limit your intake of the little BB's - they are bigger than you think when they get to your brain!
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:21 AM   #88 (permalink)
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neat! i like when people join just to post about this machine
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:35 PM   #89 (permalink)
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I remember when those Iso-2s came out...yeah, $200 was way too expensive for me...so I bought a Toker II in 1974 for $20. I still have that as well. Been thru a number of stems, but the base is the original.
Yeah, lbs of really good Michoacan (Chicago 1970) were $135. Acapulco Gold was $165, same with Jamaican. Then I moved to Denver & the Colombian influx of the mid-70s was when lids went from $15 to $40. Disgraceful!! ... I just continued with my buying in quantity, selling most of it for a little $$$, but mostly for free weed.
Then when lbs became thousands of dollars, I bowed-out of the dealing & relied on my pals who were growing weed names I had never heard of...but were sending my cranium to Jupiter.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:10 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Isomerizer Popularizer

Not sure how I stumbled across this thread but had to throw my two cents in. I'd also bought one of these gemas of American 'stone-icana' and used it a lot. Of course, ymmv but here's what worked for me. I used to go to old hemp fields (common before the days of nylon-driven prohibition) near where I lived at the time in the mid-west. What worked best for me was to go to the hemp fields when the seeds on these otherwise useless-for-weed plants were well formed but not yet opening.

I'd fill up my trunk and hang them upside down for a week or so until the seeds easily fell off. Then I'd shake the seeds loose onto a sheet for easy gathering. Another week or so later, the seeds would be dry enough so the they could be rubbed between the hands to knock the seed skins loose. That's where the Isomerizer would really shine. The plant protected its seeds over all else so the seed skins had the highest level of chemicals that were precursors to the precious THC. This is what I ran through the Isomerizer and what resulted was amazing!

Of course, it can't compare to the medicinal grade stuff out there now. This was during a time when you bought a "four-fingered lid" for about $15 and genuine Panama Red or Acapulco Gold was scarce but did make an occasional appearance. Other than that, this stuff was unsurpassed in my little town. Certainly made me popular with the local stoners. *heh
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:18 PM   #91 (permalink)
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ISO2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Ring View Post
I have the instruction manual that has every detail for extraction and increase of potency for Weed. This is the original Owners manual. Quick Ref ( 4 drops per oz of product).

I had three of these units back in the Seventies and recently found the manual, too bad I no longer have a machine.

If there are any out there to be found would like to have one again as I had it down to a science.
WOULD YOU BE INTO GIVING ADVISE AS I WOULD LOVE TO SEND YOU SOME OF THE END RODUCT GLAZZSHERLOCK@YAHOO. COM. TY
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:33 PM   #92 (permalink)
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What wattage bulb do you recommend, and is there a proper type of bulb?? Mine did not have the original, and I have been using 60w incandescents. I use 98% rubbing alcohol, what do you use? I have never used tuolene, I have seen another type of essential oil extractor which used tuolene, but before I got to examine it closely the owner accidentally BLEW IT UP! What is the proper alcohol/plant material ratio? How long do you extract? I use an old glass blender to powder my leaf, and I can fit approximately 3 oz into the basket. At room temp I set mine at 5-6 and extract for 36-48 hours, or until the vegetable material takes on a pale, pale yellow hue. What do you recommend? Again, thanks for your wisdom, friend!!
WOULD YOU BE INTERESTED IN EXCHANGING IDEAS ? I HAVE AN ISO2 AND NEED A LIL IMPROVING T.Y. GLAZSHERLOCK@YAHOO.C OM
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:39 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by elric40 View Post
yea, like I posted before...I'm not a chemist but I had always planned to buy pieces separately and assemble using a buchner funnel......I think this would work......you could probably filter 3-4 grams at a time in solution in this......this guy might even rig one up....ya never know until you ask...

and these are aspirators, not distillers....took me 10 minutes of googling to remember/find the name........."of all the things I've lost, I miss my marbles the most" Opus the Penguin - Bloom County

The link the GHIB lists on ebay for the s. acid...they have a lot of stuff cheap...a 7$ buchner funnel? That's suspiciously almost too cheap.....i thought they'd run 50$ or so.....

I just thought this was interesting (and damned convenient) if it didn't work, wouldn't you just need a rubber stopper and a b. funnel to modify it?
Hello Elric40 , i seen your iso2 years ago started to look for an iso 2 , found one and was wondering if you'd be interested in helping a brother out in getting bettter@making some something great? i just got my iso2 and would like to not waste resources and time. i would love to send you some of the end product. discreetly. thank you . Glazzsherlock glazzsherlock@yahoo. com
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:17 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Pro-grade extractors

These guys have what you need:

Welcome To Tamisium Extractors - High Performance Butane Extractors
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:58 AM   #95 (permalink)
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You can still find these machines, They make a reproduction it's the same thing as the old one just diffrent colors. They sell them on E-bay for around $600 the old school ones are much more. Waist of money if you ask me you can make your own for much less
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:28 AM   #96 (permalink)
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GOT GOOD OIL NEED TO GET OIL HONEY OIL COLOR AFTER EXTRACTION {ACTIVATED CARBON?}

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Originally Posted by elric40 View Post
You use 1-2 drops of Sulphuric Acid for every cup of Alcohol/Oil mix and heat 1-2 hours. You use a little more acid and add time if you are doing a "full load" of finely ground stuff vs. loosley cramming a couple ozs of leaves for a small run.

Also, if you want to clean the oil up, simply mix your neutralized alcohol solution (after adding baking soda) to an equivalent measure of water and stir well. Then add about a 1/3 equivalent measure of toluene (an industrial solvent available on inet) and stir well. Quickly place all in a separatory funnel and stir well (A Ring Stand to hold the funnel is VERY helpful). Let it sit for a few minutes, and the Alcohol/Water/Chlorophyll/Contaminant (the "green" part of the mixture) will separate out to the bottom of the funnel. You should now have a light greenish layer on the bottom of the Sep Funnel, a layer of Toluene is next, and your oil is mostly floating on the top of that. Simply bleed off the alcohol/chlorophyll etc mixture, put it back in the iso2 with a glass in the soxhlet basket and reclaim your alcohol on low heat for your next run.

Throw the "green slime" left in the bucket away, its just water and contaminants. Now separate the toluene/oil mixture with the iso2, then when you have most of it separated, open the iso2 in a well ventilated area on high and burn off the remainder of the toluene. You'll be left with beautiful black oil with none of that crappy green tinted plant "goo" in it. Hope this helps.
I HAVE DONE ALL OF THESE METHods but oil still comes out very dark . i would like it to be honey color but do not know how. was thinkng of using activated carbon but not sure exactly how... please help. i will send a sample to the personwho helps me with a successful recipe. glazzsherlock@yahoo. com
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:26 PM   #97 (permalink)
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If your trying to make oil I cant figure for the life of me why you would take this old school waist of money and time route theres a reason why these machines went out with the 60's if you wan make real honey oil you will not get it threw theses methods never seen honey oil type results Get your self some butane and a glass tube or do ethanol extraction with all the money you spent on this novelty system you could of got a lil terp BHO is the way to go when making honey oil
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:19 AM   #98 (permalink)
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help....ISO2 RECIPE....

hello ,,, i chop 12 oz. put it in iso2 basket let it run for 2 days on 5 or 6. extract all the goodies. isomerize. nuturalize. recapture ethyl alcohol-200 proof... put 10 times the amount of alcohol as oil in sep funnel, add 1/2 the amount in activated charcoal as oil, mix up in sepratory funnel . quest. #1 . does the waxes and chloraphyll in the solution get sucked up by the carbon? i tryied it and it did'nt work. did i do it wrong. i was following cannabis alch. could anyone give the complete instructions on how to make honey oil correctly . i am wasting resources trying to get it right and it sucks. i am using ethyl alcohol as an solvent . 98% sulphuric acid to isomerize, baking soda to nueturalize, toleune as a seprator. and charcoal to clean it up but still comes out either green or black! i am exhausted with faulty instructions. it is simpler than this as i have had convos with people who have been successful and now i cant find them to ask them. i mean i am on the right track but i need to smooth out the angles. i have also had a hard time in the sepratory funnel stage getting the different layers to separate fully ....i really need to know the best way to filter the oil with the activated charcoal as i know this should be a big key part. i shall send a nice fresh sample to whomever can provide the simple instructions for the most simple way to get the most best honey oil. i know it is the most simplest way. i just cant remember exactly. glazzsherlock@yahoo. com
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:30 PM   #99 (permalink)
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ELRIC40,,,, CLEANING UP OIL AFTER SEPERATORY FUNNEL WITH A.CHARCOAL?

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Nope....no more isomerizers, and this was the only one that really worked. It's basically a sealable stainless steel coffee pot with a pressure release system. The spun aluminum top is a slightly inverted cone on the bottom. You put Ice in the bottom of the aluminum top and when the hot alcohol (gas) rises up, it cools a little (turns into liquid) and immediately runs down to the center, and drips into the product in a basket....just like a coffee pot

It's entirely safe to use as long as you don't smoke around it.....duh. You can find 1 or 2 a year on ebay listed as "essential oil extractors".

The quote above is from a link where the author states that there is only about 3% unconverted CBDs and CNBs in "average" low to mid-grade pot. Isomerization is supposed to change these and THC into delta-9 THC (the "trippy" THC), so his theory is that there is not much there to convert, and that hemp actually has a higher percentage of these unconverted chemicals, so would produce better oil. Back in the 70's, we were told that there was like 15-20% unconverted CBN's etc, so there would be a vast improvement from the crappy pot to the oil quality.

I'll have to say this interests me to the point that I am going to try 2 batches the next time I fire it up. I'll leech, then use the acid, neutralize and separate as usual. The second batch, I'll just leech and separate and see if there is appreciable difference.
I've also toyed with the idea of using 100% strength citric acid (VERY EXPENSIVE) to see if it would do anything or maybe improve the taste.........I'll let you know if I ever get around to it.

Like scooter said though......I can add 1 gram of clean oil to a pizza paste, cook a medium pizza and share it with 6 people, and we get so high we don't even want to move. It's a different kind of buzz. Really "Slyder".......type buzz. (Your feet "slide" when you walk..... )

You see, this machine does 2 things: it removes/leeches EVERYTHING out.....then you go about your "isomerization" process. Key here is the Toluene process for removal of what I call "the green slime".....it is just contaminants...mostl y chlorophyll that makes the oil harsh which was it's downfall as a consumer product.....along with some really outlandish statements as to what you could do with the machine. It was sold as a machine you could put the crappiest pot in and get excellent oil and/or make hash which just isn't true.

WHile I've never been able to make great hash with it, I can add 1 gram of this oil to 4-5 grams of the low- midgrade bubble hash - I smash it in with a mortar & pestle, then put it all in a hash press, and wow.....it really kicks it up a notch and it's not messy...........

You have to remember that this thing came out in the mid 1970's and the only really applicable reference book you could readily get back then was "Cannabis Alchemy" which is still a good reference. There was no internet or other readily available good reference materials. Only a very few people ever stuck with this machine, and finally figured out how to use it and then clean the oil up just a few years back. You can now google up isomerizer and there is a picture of a lab setup as this process was invented/discovered back in the late 1800's!

If you just followed the instructions that came with the machine, you ended up with this dark green/brownish goo that would get you high, but it was unattractive and harsh. And oil is a bit messy anyway.....you have to prepare a place....I use a newspaper on a coffee table, dip a large paper clip into the oil, then hold it over some ashes in a pipe or bong, while holding the opposite end of the paper clip, heat it with a lighter closer to the end with the oil. IN a few seconds, the paper clip heats up, and a drop of oil falls onto your ashes, ready to smoke and is one nice sized hit. Hint: leave a bottle of rubbing alcohol close, it will clean any oil off your hands or pipe...whatever

It's gonna be a few months, but I'm getting ready to also make a run with some high grade trimmings AFTER making bubble hash....just to see what I get....because this process leeches EVERYTHING out of the leaves....nothing but brown hay left

Funny story.....back in the 70's, I showed this to a guy who liked the oil...he talked me out of some of the "hay" leftover leaves. I'm sure he was gonna add it as an "extender" to some crap he was selling.........anyw ay, he got pulled over on the way home and the cops found those leaves. They cuffed him and got him for a dui, but had to drop all drug charges against him because there was NO thc in the sample....nada....th ere are a half dozen cops still scratching their heads about that one after 30 years.........

ANyway, I'm not a chemist, but I know this machine works to make great oil. I've never been able to get it to do anything else. You can, however make up to about 20 grams of nice stuff in a long day if you stay with it. I do it while I'm doing chores around the house...you only gotta screw with it every couple of hours and 1/2of that time is waiting for it to cool so you don't lose your expensive alcohol when you open it...........

FYI, years ago (before bubble hash), I started just placing nice trimmings in a mason jar full of "freezing" alcohol for 10-15 minutes, shaking 3-4 times, then put it in a shallow dish on low on electric stove with a fan close by until alcohol evaporated. The cold alcohol would remove the trichromes etc, but not have time to leech into the plant and bring the chlorophyll with it. It's good, but you don't get much and it is wasteful of the alcohol.

ps. I only use everclear which is 190 proof = 95% alcohol. Before I ever start a run, I simply use the isomerizer to separate the alcohol from the 5% water. You just set a glass in the basket, put it on low and the alcohol comes out first, so then I start my run with 100% pure and "safe" alcohol. It tastes a lot better after isomerization than isopropyll, and I've never had the balls to try wood alcohol or acetone, though I've heard others do it to save a buck or 2 (shudder)..........

Anyway, it is a cool relic that actually does work, ya just need a little common sense. It is a high quality, sturdy machine. The damned thing cost me almost $200 34 years ago! Mine still has the ORIGINAL light bulb (heat source) in it and IT STILL WORKS!!!!! so good luck. I've rambled enough, but if anyone has questions, I'll be glad to answer them to the best of my ability.
What might the best process for cleaning up the oil? a. charcoal? and if so how and at what ratios?
detail if you would be so kind. send me an email and i will send you a sample. thank you for all your posts in the past i have read them and have been applying them. i have two iso2s but newbie... but i did leagalize for cali ... i hope i helped your world by doing so....ty
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:28 AM   #100 (permalink)
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If you want good Oil BHO or QWISO
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