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| Farmers Lab Advanced Theories and Techniques - Got a few grows under your belt and want to discuss more advanced theories and techniques? Discuss these matters here. |
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#42 (permalink) |
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Old School
Join Date: May 2005
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Stoner, I believe that you need to get your PH down. 7 is way too high. I have found that even 6.2 & up does not encourage as rapid a growth effort as 5.8 (my optimum). Just my 2P.
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#43 (permalink) |
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bougeman
Join Date: Aug 2004
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If I get anymore optimum growth, I'm going to need a bigger room. I only know what I've learned here and I always thought a ph balance of 6.5 to 7 was good for soil or soiless but as I go back to the FAQ's, I see 6 to 6.5 is recommended. How does one lower the ph? I've heard that adding vinegar will do the trick.
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#44 (permalink) |
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Old School
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My research on other forums, where there seem to be more folks that have a lot of coco grows experience, tell me that 5.8 to 6 is the best. For me this has always been the optimum for hydro as well; whatever works I say. I just use the regular potash mixture (PH down); I have found that using nutrients to adjust PH makes my PPMs out of whack. Are you using RO water? I have found that if you are, using Cal Mag or equivalent is needed. Watch out for over-watering on coco as well. This can depend greatly on what additional materials (perlite/hydroton/etc..) you mix with the coco. Coco, I have found holds moisture extremely well. my 2p Good luck.
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#45 (permalink) |
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Old School
Join Date: May 2004
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YaHooka Forums - FAQ: Part 3 - General Plant Care
May as well include what the plant itself wants right? ![]() I have been using floronova PH down stoneric, but that shite burns me every time it touchs me. I am reduced to welding gloves to handle it. Vinegar should work, I posted about that somewheres before... just gotaa figure where...
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#46 (permalink) | |
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bougeman
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Quote:
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#47 (permalink) | |
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bougeman
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Quote:
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#48 (permalink) |
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Old School
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I hope your guy is right about the not being able to over water coco (I don't believe it but I hope he is right). I will stick with what is working for me. I would urge you to mix perlite into your coco and not just in the bottom. The Botanicare Aeration Mix is what most are telling me to mix my coco to match. I use hydroton at the bottom of the containers for drainage. Whatever works. Good luck.
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#49 (permalink) |
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bougeman
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I'm 2 weeks in and I see no problems as of yet. My god, if I was using my regular soil mix I'd have one waterlogged pot with a flooded grow room. I have to water a ton just to get any kind of runoff and the next day it's the same. I've had to continuously increase my daily waterings to maintain the same runnoff. Maybe it will all come crashing down but I have yet to grow a plant that looks like this. It dwarfs anything I've grown.
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#50 (permalink) |
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Old School
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Let's see it.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to seaflo For This Useful Post: | Dandaweedman (02-19-2009) |
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#52 (permalink) |
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Old School
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Dude the phone is ringing; its the 21st century calling. The thing is just gonna keep ringing. $10 Ebay digital camera. I grew up on a ranch and could ride horses before I could run but I still drive a car.
Understood; just busting on you.
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#53 (permalink) | |
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bougeman
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Quote:
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#54 (permalink) |
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Old School
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I have a remarkable group of clones; cuttings from a mom in flower, 2 days in cloner and I have vertical growth and new leaves growing. I place my cuttings in coco & perlite mix (the same as my regular medium, place them in my humidity box, pre-watered all the cups with my solution and mist every 4 hours (when I can really, the 4 hours is just my goal) and voila, they are growing before taking root. I am so amazed at this that I uncovered one of the clones and to my surprise there are roots starting to sprout. The solution I use is Rhizotonic, Cal-Mag and PPB is the Fing bomb. Hydro equipment for sale.
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#55 (permalink) |
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been there done that
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Frankly I don't understand why anyone would use anything BUT coco. It combines the ease of soil with the returns of hydro.
As you progress from grow to grow you will find out that you do not need coco specific nutes. You're just throwing your money away. Even the enzymes (essential in coco) can be had MUCH cheaper by substituting pond enzymes. Pond enzymes contain the very same hydrolyzing enzymes (amylases, proteases, lipase, cellulase, beta-glucanase, and pectinase) that are contained in the products sold in the hydroponic stores. The only difference is the concentrations. The one thing you're better off not skimping on is the coco itself. Buy Canna and none other. Also, remember that coco is very retentive. If you plan on using any PGRs such as Bushmaster or Dr. Nodes (mepiquat) or Gravity (Paclobutrazol) you must change the coco between grows. If you intend to reuse your coco apply any PGRs as a foliar spray to avoid contaminating the coco.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to OldMan&TheWeed For This Useful Post: | seaflo (02-22-2009) |
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#57 (permalink) |
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Old School
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Someone has told me that they are experimenting with Coco in an aerated planter. They are placing air stones at the bottom and small air nodes in the middle of the pots. They tell me that if it works they will dry to develop a new container that integrates air connections into the pot. It sounds very plausible.
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#58 (permalink) |
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bougeman
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Five weeks into flowering. I have a 28 inch bush that stinks like hell.
Buds are much more advanced than any of my previous grows at this stage. I have roots coming out of the bottom of my 7 gallon pot which I've NEVER had in any previous grow, let alone with 3 weeks to go. I've been using the canna nutes along with Blackstrap Molases. I cut back watering to every other day and I feed 2 out of every 3 waterings. I love this shit and I can't wait to do a grow from start to finish.How about you, Seaflo? |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to stoneric For This Useful Post: | farmergiles (03-19-2009) |
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