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Farmers Lab Advanced Theories and Techniques - Got a few grows under your belt and want to discuss more advanced theories and techniques? Discuss these matters here.

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Old 01-15-2006, 10:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Humic and Fulvic Acid

A decent article about humic and fulvic acid

http://www.maximumyield.com/article275.htm
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Old 01-15-2006, 04:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice link, here a couple more from australianhumates.co m of specific interest to outdoor growers in hot conditions. Humic Acid is good for soil prep, fulvic is good for foliar feeds.
http://www.australianhumates.com/pdf...ember%2004.pdf and http://www.australianhumates.com/pdf...tober%2003.pdf
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That first one is great, I'll have to check out the other tomorrow.

I want to try this in my feeds in the future, see if it is worth the cost.
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Old 01-16-2006, 04:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I've been racking my brain trying to figure out the best medium additive to put into my trenches next season to help retain moisture without turning them into a bog; as all of my trenches have that tendency in heavy rain without management. To find a natural product that also has a major influence on acidic soil, and nutrient uptake is like a wet dream.
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Old 01-16-2006, 09:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cerebro
I've been racking my brain trying to figure out the best medium additive to put into my trenches next season to help retain moisture without turning them into a bog; as all of my trenches have that tendency in heavy rain without management. To find a natural product that also has a major influence on acidic soil, and nutrient uptake is like a wet dream.
GTGH = most awesome hobby

While I've never had this particular concern, I do have this observation to share. Last year we had a rather bad drought here, many trees died or will in the near future because of stress and invasion by pests because of the stress.
What I found as odd was that the old hemp still surviving in the feilds here,
were still growing, and very green, despite the conditions. The plants were shorter, 6 feet instead of 9+ feet. (2 meters instead of 3+)
True, a loss of about 1/3, but still a good size plant with no care whatsoever.
The crops around the canna definately were a loss, the corn got to 3-4 feet
and produced nothing, the soybeans came to naught as well.
I can't speak to your specific site requirements, only you know your area.
One thought though, a combo approach, a resevoir and feed set-up, as discussed by Doc Phlox, combined with well composted manures.

As for "GTGH"? You bet!! Most awesome.......
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Might be many ways to do the same thing I guess.
I've been doing pretty fair without many fancy-dan ferts and additives...
but I want MORE LOL

Hmmm I guess since I am sick today I may as well post me root pictures.
People seem to think the "weed" is a touchy plant, it's not really.
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Old 01-16-2006, 05:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It's the roots that need the most care around here. I've pulled plenty of plants with inferior root structure due to environmental influences on soil. A product like Humic Acid provides the balance/protection outdoor soils need.
Dan, I'm always after better ways of doing things, practice improvement, and I like simple solutions...not complex ones.
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Old 01-16-2006, 05:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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HMMMMMMMMM

"Humic".... "Humus"
imho
Well composted soil is alive and to my knowledge possesses these very compounds.
Which is why I suggested well composted manures. I could be wrong, it has been along time since I sat down and refreshed my memory banks. I'll check back later,
when I have better recall, and have looked around a bit more.
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Humates are like compost that has turned into peat, then towards being coal, by the process of humification. Plant material + millions of years.

taken from australianhumates.co m

To varying degrees, and depending upon the climatic conditions plant constituents, including proteins, starches and cellulose (100% organic) were decomposed under aerobic conditions (in the presence of oxygen) by a process called "Humification". This process results in the formation of thick layers of rich peat and humic materials. This is why some people call the brown coals of Victoria the "50 million year old compost." As this material is covered with sediment, the combined effects of time, temperature and pressure convert the peat firstly to brown coal and then to black coals. In the transition from brown coal to black coals humate content decreases, oxygen content decreases and carbon content increases. Generally speaking, the older the coal the lower the humate content, black coals have none, and brown coals in Victoria are rich in humate being relatively young coals. These humate rich coals are only found in the South Eastern part of Australia in the Gippsland Basin.
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Old 01-18-2006, 09:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Neat!! Thanx for the info Cerebro, I appreciate it!
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Great info I'll look for my link to the manufacturers of Earth Ambrosia.
They rock when it comes to these acids.
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Old 10-16-2006, 08:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Can I use fulvic acid in a hydroponic system. Will it drop the ph real low?

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Old 10-16-2006, 08:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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it should not have a big effect on the overall ph when you give 60-80 ppm of fulvic acid in a single application, or when added to a regular feeding schedule, i have read it should not exceed 5% of the total ferts given
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:57 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Red face I'm confused!

But learn fast! The folic acid is not fulvic acid, right?
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Old 03-19-2007, 02:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok, I think I understand most of this. A side question about Humic acid that I didn't see covered:

When I received my bottle of (humic) acid, I was told it also acts as a "wetting agent"? In other words, in soil, it helps the soil distribute moisture evenly throughout the dirt mass, helping avoid "soggy bottoms". And my soil does seem to distribute moisture better since I started using it. But that could be other factors: I recently had a worm explosion in the worm farm, no reason it couldn't happen in the plant bucket as well. (Worms like humic acid, too)

I was also told this ("wetting agent") could be done during initial soil prep with (Sunlight brand?) dishsoap diluted 1 drop / gallon flushed through soil?
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Old 03-20-2007, 06:04 AM   #16 (permalink)
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wetting agents are of most use in water repelling soils. Soils like in WA, just hard packed sand, repel water and are impossible to water -in, you water and it just disappears. After using a wetting agent (new, organic ones are better), the water sits there for much longer, giving it time to settle in.
In richer soil you have other organic matter that will hold moisture easily, but sand doesnt hold shit.
I've heard about pure soap b4, but never followed up on it, I should remember this from Uni but dont.
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Old 03-20-2008, 04:37 AM   #17 (permalink)
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bump/
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