Electrician or equivalent would be nice...:)

[shockerr]

greetings all
new to these parts,
doing a run at a mate's flat and was wondering a few querys:

1.How many watts are safe to be plugged into one surge protector power strip with 12 outlets?

2. what is the difference between a mogul base and a medium base?

3. is 87f too hot for a flowering sativa?

also, was wondering opinions on possible co2 for one scrogged plant 3 weeks flipped?

cheers all!

EDIT~ i should note, while im not a bloody american, the wiring is north american/US

[slunt]

Not an electrician, but I know a thing or two about a thing or two.
Plants love CO2 at any stage, and at three weeks in you should see a real boost in growth immediately.
87 is a little too hot. Mid 70's would be better. Babies like it almost that warm, if it's humid not dry.
As for your surge protector, it's generally based on the gauge of the wire used in it's main power cord and the number of Amps from the power supply. 12 or 14 gauge is a lot better than 16-18 Gauge wire.( If the cord is fat and thick= good, thin and skinny= bad).A 12 Gauge wire will handle a 20 amp service without heating up tremendously. An 18 gauge wire should have your place in flames by the time the 4th cord is plugged in

[shockerr]

Thank you slunt.
I realize 87 seems a bit warm, but i should add that there are no obvious signs of heat stess, no burnt tips or yellowing...(except in some older foliage which is due to lack of nutrients, i believe...i have had a hard time finding FF tigerbloom, which is the fert. i want to use for flower, and have been adding organic "super phosphate" pellets to the soil, just till i find the tigerbloom.as well as recently adding some organic liquid plant food made of worm poop) the only signs i say could possibly be heat stress are the stretched pistils...they are very pronounced, but not dying at all, thought it could just be a pheno thing....as i said my plant is a almost pure sativa with haze genetics somewhere along the line. sorry dont do piccys. My hand is warm when under my lights (which are 450w now, but i plan on adding about 175w more during this next week.) but do not feel "uncomfortably warm". put it this way, i wouldnbt be worrying about heat at all if my little digital therm lying on my screen didnt often go over 90f. moving lights away is not an option, as they are already ~1ft away and i feel any further will be bad for the plants light consumption. Before adding more lighting i plan to add one more fan directly at a bulb, to reduce heat....my mate is also unlatching the windows to his room and turning the electric room heater down to 55 more often..
in conclusion of all that rambling, heres what it lead up to:


HOW CAN I GET LOWER TEMPS??????

while i dont think the amount of heat i have now will kill the plants, i feel it will deminish potency, and yeild. i also believe, from what i've read, that growth will be better with lower temps than i have now, and some minor fungus and pest issues will probably go away with temps a little lower.

And i don't know anything about wire guage, my lamps and ballasts are wire directly by fairly thin, normal household extension cord wire...have been fine so far, my largest bulb wattage is 150, and i have tested a 150 wired this way for about 5 months and no problem, now i have 3 150s and am adding a 70 and a 100....while they are all using the extension cord wire, they are all plugged into the surge protector heavy duty power strip with a max load of 1875w, im only using about 800 with all exhaust applications iuncluded.

Also i think im gonna do the yeist and sugar thing for co2.


thank you.

[slunt]

yeast and sugar or sodium bicarb and vinegar on a slow drip.No exhausting while this takes place to let co2 levels build up. Exhaust cabinet twice a day if possible. Could you turn your lights on at night when the ambient room temp is cooler?

[Captain Cannabis]

i have heard if you run your lights at night instead of during the day you can lower temps considerably

[shockerr]

wouldnt reversing my light schedual stress her??
i dont want hermi...she was a fem seed to begin with.

[slunt]

Plant doesn't know time. If you increase and decrease the light levels then eventually problems may develop. For a one time switch from day to night shouldn't be any problem.

[shockerr]

thanks, slunt...
any tips on when to reverse,(what time of day to make the switch, should i go straight 24hr dark or 24hr light when making the switch?) thanks a lot. also, how bad would having temps in high 80s affect my yeild just incase this wont work when it gets warmer out?
cheers

[slunt]

High temps do cause lower yield due to stress and dehydration. Try starting your lights 3 hours later, each day for 4 days. Then you will be on the reverse schedule.Plants need 10-14 hours of darkness to trigger flowering and keep the process flowing smoothly. some growers reduce their hours to 10 or 11 in the last 2 weeks to help fool the plant into giving it's all before "winter" comes. Don't know if it works, but the theory seems sound.

[shockerr]

UNRELATED, BUT URGENT QUESTION:
i am having some severe yellowing and dying of older foliage which is under the canopy, everything above seems fine, some nice frosting going on...i (mis)diagnosed the issue as a nutrient def, but after seeing the problem get worse day by day, even while adding nutes, i believe this problem to maybe be environmental? dont know...leaves just start yellowing rapidly, then crisping black(dying) at the points, rapidly..... leaves usually die in about 2-3 days....i have lost probably 10 or so leaves and counting...i realize this is normal later in flower, but i am not even finished with week 4....any suggestions? should i post somewhere else?

I am also aware this may be due directly because they are under the canopy, lack of sunlight....right? however, i find it strange that some under the net which get more sun than others, die first...it seems everything directly under the screen is dying...

thankz

[slunt]

Sounds like fertilizer burn. Time for a soil flush. Add water til it pours out your drainage holes fairly clearly. Read up on the word "Lumens" and understand how far light energy is pushed by different powered bulbs. This will give you an idea if a plants lower area is receiving enough light.

[slunt]

this chart is helpful

[shockerr]

wow really?? nutrient burnnn? couldnt have imagined....did i mention she is on completely organic feed with just what ive added to the soil, hasnt receieved any liquid ferts yet, and she will always be organic...and like i said only nutes so far have been pellets you add to the soil mix....not very much either... i feel that it has more to do with being under the canopy, can i just remove all foliage under canopy, or will that hurt yeild, i still have much foliage above...stretching has about stopped.

[shockerr]

i know some people just clip everything that doesnt make it past the net, should i do this? the only reason i havent yet, is because im afraid that whatever defeciency the plant has (you say it sounds like a burn, in my opinion that is not possible..) i feel like its trying to find that nutrient in every place it could be hiding, and i feel if i cut a leaf before that nutrient has been depleted, the plant will destroy other leaves trying to feed itself...see what i mean? i just dont want my buds to be affected... they are growing so nice and beautiful...many pistils, trichs forming rapidly, stretch has about stopped and the "buds" seem to swell pretty fast, cant wait to see true true buds, now all i see is white/creamy hairs covering some little sparkling balls of green.

[slunt]

The reason I suggest fert burn, is it's easiest to treat. some fert pellets are high in percentage of Nitrogen or phospherous. These leaching in concentration can show up in plant leaves. You state barely any fert used, so we'll move on. My second thing would be "BUGS". Spider mites hide under the leaves, especially the lower ones. They suck nutrition out of the leaves til they die and turn yellow. Yellow of course attracts spider mites and as eggs hatch, others are drawn to the dying leaf to feed also.Look under the leaf for incredibly tiny moving dots and perhaps light gauzy webbing on edge of leaf. Fungus gnats in your soil or hydroponic system can be present feeding on your root system. Both are fairly easy to control.
If not bugs, then we move to lighting and light intensity concerns.

[shockerr]

I was initially going to say 100% no to spider mites, however after viewing your post, and running to go check on my baby, i think it might be a possibility, but still not likely. I inspected some of the under sides of the leaves; no moving bugs or anything, but on some of the leaves, there were a few tiny white spots, which you could tell were not part of the leaf...i took out my scope, looked and saw what i can only describe as white sand-looking granuals...not spherical like an egg, and almost the tint of a milky trich....but def. not a trichome. and as i said, these were just tiny dots on some leaves, spread apart....i crushed them with my finger and it didnt seem to do much....no web, no crawling bugs on foliage.

however, i have been battling fungus gnats for about a month now, i thought i won the war a few weeks back by putting on new top soil and doing a soil drench of k+neem and natural insecticidal soap, as the gnats disappeared for a few days, however there seems to be more now, quite a bit more....but i never see them on/near buds or foliage, just on the soil....i would love to hear of a way to take care of these bloody pests without costing a dime, but if it means the safety of my crop is in jepordy, price is not an issue...

[slunt]

Fungus gnat babies feed on the root systems, and are unseen under the soil til they mature and crawl up. Little yellow sticky strips are useful to catch, kill and control the adults but babies are a whole dif ball of wax. 3 pronged attack needed if this is the problem. gas or spray the plants for adult bugs, put out sticky strips to catch emerging larva/adults, and treat plant roots for babies and eggs til the cycle is broken.If your plants aren't too far into flower you could increase the lights for a month and re-veg til they are healthy and then induce flowering again.

[shockerr]

Originally Posted by slunt

Fungus gnat babies feed on the root systems, and are unseen under the soil til they mature and crawl up. Little yellow sticky strips are useful to catch, kill and control the adults but babies are a whole dif ball of wax. 3 pronged attack needed if this is the problem. gas or spray the plants for adult bugs, put out sticky strips to catch emerging larva/adults, and treat plant roots for babies and eggs til the cycle is broken.If your plants aren't too far into flower you could increase the lights for a month and re-veg til they are healthy and then induce flowering again.

they have just finished week 4 of flower, and i have a perpetual setup planned, would not want to delay harvest by a month... i have seen and killed larvae about a month ago, this is when i thought i won the war, but no! about 3-4 weeks later i have lost the larvae completely, and am struggling with the adults. How can i treat the roots???

Also, if pushing harvest back is the only option, how would this affect yield?

I feel this should be in another thread, or maybe the thread title changed...i need as much professional help as possible. thank you, slunt for guiding me through this....

My leaves keep yellowing, more and more....the yellowing and dying off will soon get to my buds, in the name of cannabis everywhere, I'm begging you, Save My Stash!

[slunt]

First you have to establish that is the problem. If it is, before you start perpetual sea of green growing, you will have to sterilize your room and get new sterile soil, or it will continue forever. I don't know what chemical is used today to kill larva and eggs. Where do you get your babies from? Many bugs are passed between cloners and growers if care is not taken. turning the plant back to Veg will not save it now as gnats have a grip like a fat kid on a hotdog. You may be able to limp it along by catching emerging adults and stopping the egg laying cycle, but your yield will be less as the plant is weakened. Contact your local gardening store or hydroponics shop for solutions.

[shockerr]

After again re-examining the soil, i believe my yellowing is almost 100% due to pests in the soil....aside from gnats and gnat larvae, i have what i believe are spider mites....but only in the soil. I have looked over many of my leaves top and bottom, no signs of the mites anywhere on the leaves(other than yellowing) For some reason i feel that they dont know the plant is there...hah

I did a K+neem and insecticidal soil soak, hoping to drown the adults on top....
how much less yield you think? Ive got 450w hps over one scrogged sativa now, was hoping for a harvest of about 200g or so...
This still has not affected appearance of the buds or surrounding foliage, and is still just everything under the screen
my plant started from seed, not clone
im hoping not to use harsh chemicals, i want organic as possible.
if nutrients are being sucked away by pests at the roots, wouldnt it be a good idea to give more nutrients, as well???

thank you