Odds n Sods - Page 11

**farmergiles** · 03-03-2009, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dandaweedman

the blight (sounds sooo ominous

)

The dreaded ganja blight? Aaargh

.

Trimming back the roots. Seems they have to keep growing, even if you have to hack them back to allow them to.

Relentless arn`t they?

Dandaweedman · 03-05-2009, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farmergiles

The dreaded ganja blight? Aaargh

.

Trimming back the roots. Seems they have to keep growing, even if you have to hack them back to allow them to.

Relentless arn`t they?

It took out all the ladies we grew so hard to find. I thought it was the tobacco virus, but I'm not convinced.

They really are. There was one in a cup that had a 1/2 meristem, it looked funny sort of.

Dandaweedman · 03-05-2009, 07:47 PM

Magnesium deficiency.
Early signs are yellowing of the leaf starting in between the veins of the leaves.
Also leaf tips can be pointing a little sideways and in the more advanced state the lower leaf tips look burnt.

**~~SpankyMcLankey~~** · 03-06-2009, 01:12 AM

Is it easier to identify a nutrient toxic/deficient plant in the earlier signs of the symptoms? Cause I think my plant had just gotten nute lock up and there were a lot of things going on. Then again, I don't know, I'm not experienced enough to say. Is there an easy way to reverse nute lock up? Does flushing help nute lock up once damage has already been done?

**farmergiles** · 03-06-2009, 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpankyMcLankey

I think my plant had just gotten nute lock up and there were a lot of things going on.

.....

Does flushing help nute lock up once damage has already been done?

Yes I think you understand very well, things can get complicated, plant health is a holistic thing (everything tends to affect everything else).

And yes straight watering or even flushing will help. Flushing should probably be used as a last resort as it will stress the plant and starve the roots of oxygen for a while.

It`s best to go steady with the nutes until you know what your plants can take, it`s a lot easier to remedy a deficiency than a nutrient OD. Watch for the initial signs like the leaf tips looking scorched (see pic).

Also nutrients may affect the taste of your finished bud.

Edit- the more well developed a plant`s root system the better it will be able to cope with nutrients and the less likely it will suffer from deficiencies.

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 04:59 AM

Good post Farmergiles.

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 05:03 AM

Another one...

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 05:06 AM

The leaves are surely droopy on this one.
This one has an MG def. A nitrogen def. and is dry as the proverbial bone.

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 05:07 AM

Here is one from the OG grow FAQ

Quote:

GrowFAQ :How many hours of light do I need for blooming? Added by: administrator Last edited by: administrator Viewed: 806 times Rated by 32 users: 9.00/10
12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. 12/12 is the standard cycle for flowering Cannabis plants indoors.

If you extend the light period by an hour or two (13/11 to 14/10) you can correspondingly extend the flowering period by 10 to 15%. There is an added bulk that makes up for the extended time but the buds may be a bit leafier.
Any attempts to use a cycle that does not add up to 24 hours should be considered very experimental as it goes against the natural rhythm that all living things have evolved with.
Some equatorial based varieties may not be light cycle triggered at all. This means that they are used to growing under 12/12 all the time and will flower (and finish) when they are good and ready.
Last modified: 22:55 - Feb 24, 2001

Quicklink: http://overgrow.com/growfaq/789
GrowFAQ © 2000-2004 Overgrow

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 05:08 AM

Another one...

Quote:

GrowFAQ :How does SCROG improve my canopy and yield? Added by: administrator Viewed: 518 times Rated by 19 users: 8.18/10
Contributed by pH:

** The ScrOG Concept **

Growing with fluoros gives one a good understanding of light to plant distance because it's so critical. Even so, HID users still appreciate the impact of having as much growth as possible, as close as possible to the light. It's how to make best use of what you have.

In the process of achieving the above, the shape of the growing canopy would match a line in space where light intensity would be equal as it eminates from the light source. With fluoros, it's a perfectly flat plane. With a stationary HID it's a concave shape, the degree of which depends on the area covered. With an HID on a light mover, it's a perfectly flat plane.

Training is a method of growth control that allows one to shape their canopy. Tying, bending, crimping, topping, are all training methods. Training branches to grow where one wants in order to get the desired shape takes time. At best, even though branches are where one wants them, when the canopy is in full flower there are void spaces between the buds where other buds could be growing, but aren't.

The Sea of Green method, where many plants are used in an effort to eliminate the void spaces between buds, was named from the vision of seeing the procsess in use. The canopy looks like a "Sea of Green".

Either way, extra effort is required to maximize the use of canopy space. The plant's shape and the shape we want from a canopy under artificial lights are simply not the same. IOW Mother Nature will not cooperate:-) The extra effort comes in the form of using more plants (SOG), or training fewer plants.

After finding from experience that I didn't like maintaining the numbers of plants, mothers, and clones needed for SOG I opted for using fewer plants. I had to train but still wanted that Sea of Green horizontal profile and no void spaces in my canopy.

Enter the Screen

When a length of poultry netting is stretched over the grow area, it eliminates the need for conventional training. Tying, bending, and crimping are replaced by using the netting as anchors to keep shoots in position. It can also be perfectly shaped to make best use of the light. The netting is known as the screen, hence the name Screen Of Green or ScrOG for short.

Plants are topped to promote branching, as the plants grow into the screen and their shoot tips start to grow through the holes in the screen, they are pulled back under the screen and guided to the next hole to continue their horizontal growth. All the time maintaining the profile of the screen to maximize light use. Growth is very robust. While now getting the same light intensity as the primary shoot tips, secondary growth seems to blossom, and from the secondary growth comes tertiary growth, etc.. All at the top of the canopy, and all receiving maximum light intensity. How many plants are used depends on how much time the grower wants to take to fill the screen to a point where it will be full with buds at harvest. This will largely depend on the growth traits of the variety he uses, but one can fill a canopy with only one plant if desired.

When flowered, only the slow growing buds are allowed to grow through the holes in the ScrOG. The resulting harvest profile is indeed a Sea Of Green but with much fewer plants and the increased yields gained from making use of the void spaces found in a conventionaly trained, non-SOG canopy.
Last modified: 07:24 - Feb 25, 2001

Quicklink: http://overgrow.com/growfaq/791
GrowFAQ © 2000-2004 Overgrow

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 05:13 AM

May as well have these until we get something done.

Quote:

GrowFAQ :How do I pre train my plant for a ScrOG grow? Added by: MedMan Last edited by: MedMan Viewed: 919 times Rated by 9 users: 5.75/10
Contributed by: Daveiscool

So you?re going to grow ScrOG? Well, get used to training your plant, you will spend a lot of time shaping and positioning for better light distribution. One of the main advantages of ScrOG, is when the main growth tip is redirected horizontally 90 degrees to the screen, it opens the main stock to more light, which generates growth tips, and increases vigour.

What I like to do is give my plant a head start, by pre training the main stock horizontally. This has two real benefits, the main stock is not affected by the installation of the screen (training your plant horizontally to 90 degrees, really helps when you have a real fat stock), and the growth tips start growing/stretching upwards so they are very close to, or are penetrating the screen when the screen is installed (normally the growth tips wouldn't start to stretch up until the initial main growth tip was trained horizontal to the screen, this causes you to veg more time under the screen to allow for the growth tips to penetrate).

All you need is a twisty tie, a container, a sharp pointy object, and some string. First take the string and at one end make a loop, leave the other end alone for now. Next, take your container and pop a hole at the top of the container, then slip the loop through the hole (So the loop would go through the hole towards the centre of the pot). Next, at one end of the twisty tie, secure your stock where you want it to bend horizontally, at the other end twisty tie around the loop. Carefully take the string hanging out of the hole you made and pull on it, the plant should start to bend where you have it secured at the main stock. Pull the string till you have your desired angle then tie a knot that won't fit through the hole you poked in the container, and let go of the string.

Veg like this for 3-5 days; you should now have a pre-trained plant, ready to be installed into the screen. NOTE: Your plant may not be able to bend horizontally on the first train,so to prevent snapping the stem, train progressively.
Last modified: 19:49 - Nov 26, 2001

Quicklink: http://overgrow.com/growfaq/1164
GrowFAQ � 2000-2004 Overgrow

**farmergiles** · 03-06-2009, 05:20 AM

Well saved Dan, so much good info was lost when overgrow went down.

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 05:20 AM

Part 1

Quote:

GrowFAQ :Growing Consensus Synopsis Paper: Should Fan Leaves be Trimmed? Added by: 10k Last edited by: 10k Viewed: 396 times Rated by 80 users: 8.76/10

Growing Consensus Synopsis Paper

Should Fan Leaves be Trimmed?

There are a number of theories why fan leaves should or should not be removed. The purpose of this paper is to analyze cannabis cultivation techniques that advocate for and against fan leaf removal. A summary of each theory is presented, followed by a review of fan leaf function. The different theories advocating for and against the removal of fan leaves are then discussed in the context of fan leaf function and cultivation techniques.

THEORIES WHY TO TRIM FAN LEAVES
Increase Lower Bud Development
The fan leaves shade lower buds and that these buds do not develop to there full potential because of a reduction in lighting intensity due to shading from upper fan leaves.

To conserve energy for upper bud development
Trimming fan leaves and lower, shaded branches focuses the plant�s development on main top buds (Che Bleu, 03.13.2002). A plant wastes precious energy several ways. A tall plant needs to use energy to build extra stem, and then use extra energy to move water up higher, this is why I believe "scrog" methods are productive. An untrimmed bushy plant causes the plant to expend energy to build elaborate branches and leaves, and then has to use excess energy to supply all these structures. Careful trimming to remove unnecessary branches (which wont produce nice buds) and unproductive suckers will leave more energy for a larger yield. Suckers do exactly as their name suggests, they suck needless energy from the plant which can be put to better use, towards yield (Leaf, 03.13.2002).

Reduce the Stretch
If fan leaves are trimmed during the early flowering stage, the stretch is reduced (Che Bleu, 03.13.2002). Reducing the stretch might be advantageous in certain cultivation conditions.

Speeding Up The Flushing Process
Remove some of the fan leaves 14 days before harvest. It helps speed up the flushing process and or makes flushing unnecessary (Homemadepot, 03.13.2002).

Reduce The Chance of Mould
Removal of dead fan leaves is necessary to reduce the risk of mould. Failing to "clear the airway" can lead to development of mould in the "crowded" areas of the plant (Jeast, 03.13.2002).

Scrog growers may also reduce the chance of mould by removing fan leaves due to reduce the level of transpiration. This is because many scrog grows are in a confined space where humidity is a serious problem (DoctorDangerous, 09.04.2002). However with better ventilation it may be necessary to avoid the mould problem (Nietzsche, 09.04.2002).

Increase root development on Clones
Fan leaves on clones should have their blades cut in half, to make the clone grow slowly while a root system develops (Weezil, 03.12.2002).

HOW DO FAN LEAVES FUNCTION
The large fan leaves have a definite function in the growth and development of cannabis. Large leaves serve as photosynthetic factories for the production of sugars and other necessary growth substances. Most cannabis plants begin to lose their larger leaves when they enter the flowering stage and this trend continues on until senescence (death of the plant).

Fan leaves account for the greatest area for the reception of photons on a plant, thus they account for the majority of photosynthesis which occurs within a plant. Cells in the plant's leaves, called chloroplasts, contain a green pigment called chlorophyll which interacts with sunlight to split the water in the plant into its basic components. Leaves only absorb about 15% of the solar energy that hits them, the other 85% passes through-- but they reflect all the green light, which means it looks darker below the leaf to a human than it does to the plant because our eyes are most sensitive to the green spectrum (Shipperke, 03.15.2002).

Photosynthesis occurs in all green parts of plants. The process has two stages, the light reactions and the Calvin cycle, that convert water and carbon dioxide into sugar and oxygen. These sugars are later used to power all the processes in the plant, including the synthesis of THC and other cannabinoids (Shipperke, 04.02.2002; Ca, 03.13.2002). Fan leaves possess the greatest number of stomata, which are small pores or valves on the underside of the leaf which water vapor and carbon dioxide diffuse during transpiration and photosynthesis (carbon fixation). Carbon dioxide first enters the leaf through the stomata and combines with the stored energy in the chloroplasts through a chemical reaction (the Calvin cycle) to produce a simple sugar. This sugar is unloaded into the tissues and transported through tubes in the leaf to supply the synthesized food to other plant parts such as growing or respiring tissues like young leaves, roots, and flowers of the plant. meristems (UK Tricky Knome, 03.14.2002).

Removal of fan leaves will not only slow growth, but it will also hinder the plants ability to rid itself of toxic gases, and also hinder the regulation of the plants temperature via stomata. Changes in the plants chemical metabolism caused by fan leave removal causes the plant to work overtime to rid �toxins� with less leaves, as a result the pant may allocate more growth hormones into growing more leaves to make up for what has been lost(Equator, 03.15.2002). Removing large amounts of fan leaves may also interfere with the metabolic balance of the plant. Leaf removal may also cause sex reversal resulting from a metabolic imbalance.

There is a relationship regarding the amount of carbohydrates a leaf produces and CO2 intake relative to outside forces. When you have a situation whereby the leaf is no longer productive for the plant for whatever reason that may be - low light, old age, disease, insect attack etc, the plant will discard it. (Thunderbunny as citied, by Nietzsche, 03.13.2002.

Plants have two different kinds of vessels in their stems to move stuff around, xylem and phloem. Xylem runs from the roots up the stem carrying water and nutrients. Phloem runs both up and down to move sugars hormones, proteins, etc but mostly sugars. Each part of the plant can be either a sugar source or a sugar sink (Shipperke, 03.15.2002). Phloem moves from sources (areas of supply) to sinks (areas of metabolism or storage). Granted that the flowers can produce some photosynthate, but they are no where near as effective as fan leaves (resin glands significantly reduce light to the tissue they are found on). Flowers are sink tissues, leaves are source tissues. Sinks do not produce enough photosynthate, and are importers. Sources give photosynthate to sinks in closest proximity. Upper leaves bring sucrose to shoot apical meristem and young leaves while lower leaves bring goodies to roots (UK Tricky Knome, 03.17.2002). Remove the source and the sink will be affected (Diels Alder, 03.15.2002).

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 05:22 AM

Part 2

Quote:

The leaves at the top of a plant tend to supply the top growing shoots. The leaves at the bottom of the plant tend to supply the roots. The middle leaves can go either way as the demand changes. During flowering and fruiting, only the very bottom leaves supply the roots and the rest of the leaves try to get as much energy as possible to the flowers of fruits. For this reason, the more leaves are unshaded and in good light, the more chance the plant has of creating extra storage of energy that will ultimately go into yield (Leaf, 03.13.2002). However Jeast (03.13.02) believes that the rich green leaves emerging from the bud are a sufficient energy source of solar energy for the plant's floral development. Therefore the old fan leaves are once again rendered useless and only drain energy from the developing part of the plant (Jeast, 03.13.02).

Fan leaves store mobile nutrients, these stored nutrients are essential in the later stages of flowering. When flushing a plant the fan leaves will lose their color quickly. This is because the nutrients are being mobilized to the atypical meristem (grow tip, bud site). Draining your fan leaves with a flushing period will increase floral development (Ca, 13.03.2002). Fan leaves therefore serve as a nutrient deficiency buffer zone for the plant (Higstar, 03.13.2002).
Nutrient burn usually causes bottom leaves begin to die however DaGnome (03.15.2002) observed that if you do not remove the leaves then they will absorb damage as premature removal generally results in more leaf loss. However if growing hydroponically under ideal conditions it could be argued that fan leaves serve as a nutrient buffer is a moot point.

WHEN AND WHAT TO TRIM IF AT ALL
To trim or not to trim that is the question. Try everything for yourself. Try it all ways. (The Crazy Composer, 13.03.2002). Simply put there is no universal answer it depends on how your are growing when where and what you trim (Cardboardbill, 03.13.2002)

Genetic Variance
Cannabis phenotypes play a large part. A strain with very few leaves and long internodes will need a lot less trimming - if a trimming technique is even adopted. A strain with a surplus of leaves and short internodes would require more thinning to get the same amount of light to the lower buds (The Crazy Composer, 13.03.2002). Cannabis varieties from high sunshine equatorial areas like thai sativa have thin leaves most likely due to more light than say a indicia plant from afghan regions have wider fan leaves due to less light intensity in their natural environment (Lebman, 03.20.2002).

Remove non productive �dead� leaf material
Here are some signs to look for when removing foliage. Leaves that have reached their final size and are ageing will stop producing chlorophyll and start changing to a lighter color, often yellowing and showing purple petioles (leaf stems). This is when the leaves' capacity to produce sugars starts to diminish, so they are the ones to take out of the way to allow Sunlight to fall on the younger leaves that are producing at a higher rate. The older leaves, even though larger, are no longer very productive once they are not dark green anymore. By the time they start looking pale or discolored, they are not contributing anything to the plant at all. Obviously, the lower leaves are the oldest and the first to age. Old leaves can be removed at any time they are shading younger ones, but try to never remove a leaf in its expanding stage because it is producing at full power (Leaf, 03.13.2002.

Outdoors, fan leaves serve an additional and very important purpose of protecting the buds from the elements and predators. These leaves often become damaged in the course of doing their duty, and will then wither or break off (Jeast, 03.13.02). However depending on the humidity of the growing climate Leaf (03.13.2002) suggests to trim most leaves that show signs of age, are dull in color, yellowing, and obviously any brown or spotted leaves that have bugs or bug damage to prevent mould.

To Increase Lower Bud Development
Light efficiency decreases with distance. The inverse squared light rule states that illuminance is inversely proportionate to the square of the distance from the light source.
Removing the largest area of photosynthesis that is closest to the light source simply to benefit smaller leaves growing out of the but sites that are further away is not logical when growing indoors"(Smokinrav, 03.15.2002). Cultivating outdoors under the sun, the fan leaves don't create nearly as much shade as they do indoors (~shabang~, 03.13.2002). This is consistent with the inverse squared light rule; the sun is 149,597,890 km away so a few feet has no real effect on intensity. This suggests that a trimming benefit could be achieved outdoors as opposed to indoors however leaves only absorb about 15% of the solar energy that hits them, the other 85% passes through except for green light which is reflected, therefore removal of fan leaves would only provide a 15% increase light transmission outdoors (Shipperke, 03.15.2002).

Jeast (03.12.2002) removes fan leaves that are yellowing or starting to yellow (these are usually on the lower stems) and also mid-stem fan leaves that are shading buds. He always try to retain the upper 2 - 3 sets of fan leaves indoors as he believe they are the ones that are truly "working". The concept of the upper fan leaves doing all the work is consistent with effect of the inverse square rule on lighting intensity indoors and the flow on effect for photosynthesis. In support for trimming HyGradeChronic (03.25.2002) states selective trimming benefits lower floral development, allowing the buds to fill out and tighten up better. However he does mention that humidity must be kept to a minimum as leftover stems from the leaf can develop mould unless kept at optimum humidity. Another flow on effect to leaf trimming mentioned by HydradeChronic is that it takes seven to ten days longer for floral development to finish, but the resulting florescence is at it�s peak from top to bottom.

An alternative to trimming to increase light to lower floral clusters is to use a light mover on a single plant the results are better thanks to the better penetration of light at different angles. Even simple under lighting and side lighting works well to counter fan leaves by adding extra light where it would not normally get (Vapour, 03/13.2002).

Increase upper bud development
What folks need to focus on is the causes of premature leaf drop as that negatively affects yields. If you've read my posts over the years, I try to pound that issue home whenever given a chance. After a good root development, the most important element in floral production is the retention of healthy leaves (Thunderbunny as citied, by Nietzsche, 03.13.2002).

Green Reaper (03.12.2002) suggests that large leaves actually take more energy to maintain than they produce. In contrast Thunderbunny (as citied, by Nietzsche, 03.13.2002) states that when a leaf no longer serves a productive purpose, the plant will remove the leftover metabolites from the leaf, which causes the old spotty, yellowing, necrotic image and then the leaf drops. Once that leaf is gone, a percentage of what would be available carbohydrates for future plant growth is diminished in direct relationship to the loss. The mobility of plants sugars and nutrients suggests that fully developed fan leaves are sources not sinks. Whether developing fan leaves are a sink or a source however is not as clear. An actively growing leaf may be a sink, using energy from the other parts of the plant to fuel their development (George, 03.20.2002). Older developed leaves and that are sources. However there is no evidence to support that during the plants life cycle the development of fan leaves takes more energy then a fully developed fan leave provides, that is to say sink phase is greater than the source phase (Nietzsche). It would also seem illogical from an evolutionary point of view that a plant would evolve to produce leaves that take more energy to sustain then they produce (~shabang~, 03.13.2002).

Trim fan leaves in the last 14 days to help speed up flushing
It helps speed up the flushing process and or makes flushing unnecessary (Homemadepot, 03.13.2002). However the leaves should naturally yellow, too much green in the leaves translates to too much "green" taste in the leaves in my opinion (Bigislandbud, 03.14.2002).

Reducing the Stretch
If trimming fan leaves reduced the stretch it is likely that this occurred because it takes away from the plant's available energy stores and energy generators (~Shabang~, 03.13.2002). This method of reducing the stretch should only be used if absolutely necessary, other options include chemical treatment may be a more viable option.

HOW TO TRIM IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO SO
If you decide to trim your fan leaves, one should always do it by clipping the petiole about halfway between the base of the fan leaf and the stem/branch. Allow the remainder of the petiole to dry up and fall off on its own. This will help protect the plant from risks of infections. They should never be stripped or broken off at the base of the petiole as that would be expose more chance of infecting the plant. Petiole is the he foot stalk of a leaf (10k, 03.16.2002)

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 05:23 AM

Part 3

Quote:

Leaf (03.13.2002) believes that excessive leaf trimming and branch pruning will cause the plant to use extra energy to repair itself. However, trimming must be done from time to time, for the longer a plant is left untrimmed, the more material must be removed at one time, therefore the greater the damage that the plant will need to repair. Do not trim fan leaves during veg either, unless they turn yellow. The first real pruning starts when going into 12/12 (Jeast, 03.13.2002). When trimming and pruning, I try to ensure that I do not cause the plant to 'bleed'. Leaf tries to pinch off shoots and leaves with my fingernails as opposed to leaving a clean cut. One thing to remember is every time you cut into any part of a plant, you are exposing the inside of the plant to fungus and bacteria (Leaf, 03.13.2002).

Tuck instead of trimming
Another method is to tuck your fans leaves under to expose the buds, don't forget that even though they wont be getting as much light they are still photosynthesizing and more importantly exchanging gases storing nutrients, and building sugars which the bud then converts into THC and other cannibinoids (Ca, 13.03.2002)

This Synopsis paper, is a consensus of opinions compiled in the Overgrow Growing Consensus forum. Compiled and written by Nietzsche, originally posted 4/20/2002.
Last modified: 08:00 - Jul 17, 2003

Quicklink: http://overgrow.com/growfaq/1546
GrowFAQ © 2000-2004 Overgrow

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 05:25 AM

The petiole is the small branch that connects the leaf to the meristem (main stem).
It has been proven the plants undergo less stress by cutting the petiole close in to the main stem.

Cerebro · 03-06-2009, 05:59 AM

wow, serious faqage.

Peace seeker · 03-06-2009, 08:19 AM

great posts and pics

i think if we put some effort into it, in a few months we could have a super nice FAQ section that (not only) new growers can use, but also quite experienced ones.

and that sir, is an achievement

**farmergiles** · 03-06-2009, 02:11 PM

Getting FAQed up

.

Dandaweedman · 03-06-2009, 09:24 PM

The C #3 has me majorly FAQed up

I need the words yet for the nute deficiencies and toxicities yet. And more picture of nute defs.
Anyone got any?

Molybedenum, Calcium, Boron, Ph, I'll get some Phosphorous and Nitrogen def tonight or tomorrow if I end up going to bed at a reasonable hour

03-05-2009, 07:47 PM	#203 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	Magnesium deficiency. Early signs are yellowing of the leaf starting in between the veins of the leaves. Also leaf tips can be pointing a little sideways and in the more advanced state the lower leaf tips look burnt. __________________ Hanging in the Cabana Last edited by Dandaweedman; 03-05-2009 at 07:54 PM.

03-06-2009, 04:59 AM	#206 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	Good post Farmergiles. __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

03-06-2009, 05:03 AM	#207 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	Another one... __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

03-06-2009, 05:06 AM	#208 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	The leaves are surely droopy on this one. This one has an MG def. A nitrogen def. and is dry as the proverbial bone. __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

03-06-2009, 05:20 AM	#212 (permalink)
farmergiles Yahookan Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: In My Fire Engine Posts: 7,134 Thanks: 2,040 Thanked 3,167 Times in 2,191 Posts	Well saved Dan, so much good info was lost when overgrow went down. __________________ Cultivate a stoic calmness *Fuck the Monkeys*

03-06-2009, 01:12 AM	#204 (permalink)
~~SpankyMcLankey~~ Banned Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 3,310 Thanks: 1,748 Thanked 1,063 Times in 703 Posts	Is it easier to identify a nutrient toxic/deficient plant in the earlier signs of the symptoms? Cause I think my plant had just gotten nute lock up and there were a lot of things going on. Then again, I don't know, I'm not experienced enough to say. Is there an easy way to reverse nute lock up? Does flushing help nute lock up once damage has already been done?

03-06-2009, 05:25 AM	#216 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	The petiole is the small branch that connects the leaf to the meristem (main stem). It has been proven the plants undergo less stress by cutting the petiole close in to the main stem. __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

03-06-2009, 08:19 AM	#218 (permalink)
Peace seeker free the herb Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 6,830 Thanks: 749 Thanked 530 Times in 376 Posts	great posts and pics i think if we put some effort into it, in a few months we could have a super nice FAQ section that (not only) new growers can use, but also quite experienced ones. and that sir, is an achievement

03-06-2009, 02:11 PM	#219 (permalink)
farmergiles Yahookan Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: In My Fire Engine Posts: 7,134 Thanks: 2,040 Thanked 3,167 Times in 2,191 Posts	Getting FAQed up . __________________ Cultivate a stoic calmness *Fuck the Monkeys*

03-06-2009, 09:24 PM	#220 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	The C #3 has me majorly FAQed up I need the words yet for the nute deficiencies and toxicities yet. And more picture of nute defs. Anyone got any? Molybedenum, Calcium, Boron, Ph, I'll get some Phosphorous and Nitrogen def tonight or tomorrow if I end up going to bed at a reasonable hour __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

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