Dandaweedman

No, I never asked for any Grendal to try... yet
I know it's made by the mota militia so I'll ask around.

You know, we have had a spate (ohhh interesting word that) of Mg defs as well. Odd thing is we have been adding dolomitic lime to try and slow that down.
Didn't seem to work and we left the mix for over 3 weeks turning it every day.

Well, The mad russian started some Crippy a couple of months ago (ahem) but his proxy didn't work out
It's definitely got an old skool taste to her. We had 4 females running and a couple of them provided some racy shite even at over 11 weeks in flower, even though the trichs said it should be relaxing.
Tall with side branching not being enough to even provide us with clones.

We have a few more seeds left and we are definitely going to make more of that one if we can.

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Dandaweedman

Any girls watching, close your eyes. The LUI boys are nekkid in this post
These took a bit longer than usual to root being that the donor plant was flowering for about 7 weeks.
We took 3 clones and they have all rooted so far.

Note the white ring from sitting in icky tap water... and the fugly leaves.
But so far so good, they have been in cups of soil mix for a few days now and are doing ok.

Took some Cotton candy clones a few days ago and one already has some kewl roots.
Pictures of those later today in the CC thread of Jennas.

Attached Images

  

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Cerebro

nice vigour, lol.
mota did some work with SAGE as well, i never saw much on those crosses, did you?
always wanted to try some.

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Dandaweedman

He did at that, when I first ran into him he was using it in a cross or 2 but I believe he stated it was too unstable to work with or something.
I'll try and back track that and see what happened for sure.

It's been a few years, might be tough to find.

Thanks for that, it brings it to mind I had better start saving some info that may dry up soon.

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Dandaweedman

Those are the only ones that tempt me to top from early. Kicking my ass i didn't too.

I wouldn't be afraid of grabbing up any of Mota's older stuff. It was almost all excellent weed.
I haven't tried much, if anything, done by the Militia. I'm not exactly sure when they came into play.
I do have a narrow little world, but it keeps me happy

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Cerebro

training one of those showing little lateral branching sideways/horizontal would prob sort it out.

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Dandaweedman

Actually, leaving those plants on the outside wall of the flower room and not turning the plants is another way... but you sure end up with some lopsided plants ROFL

That's a good point buddy, training is the best way.
A couple of the cotton Candy will have clones taken and placed in a shot glass they are so short (the side branching)

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Dandaweedman

Why are Digital Ballasts Better?
written by Susan Slobac, whom is an expert on hydroponics gardening.

Before entering into a discussion as to why digital ballasts are superior to the old-fashioned magnetic core and coil types,
it may be helpful to know exactly what a ballast system is in terms of hydroponic gardening and grow lights.

All standard grow lights used in hydroponic gardening – whether some type of metal vapor or fluorescent – employ a ballast system.
This consists of a housing, within which is contained electronic components that in essence “primes the pump.”
A fluorescent light has its own built-in ballast system; this builds up the energy required to activate the molecules inside the fluorescent tube, which in turn causes them to glow, emitting light.
Metal Halide and HPS grow lights have “remote ballasts” which are housed inside a metal container.
The components are what make up these lamps’ main power supply. Together, they function as a “pre-heater,” which allows electrical power to build up to the point that the lamp will run.

The drawback of these kinds of ballasts is that they build up the energy required to run the lamp, then sends it on all at once.
The cold bulb is literally “slammed” with energy at full force.
A good metaphor is the case of someone who puts a car in gear, disengages the clutch, revs the engine up to 4000 RPM then “pops” the clutch.
“Pealing out” may be fun and impressive to onlookers (though illegal in most places), but as any automotive technician will tell you, can shorten the car’s engine and drive train considerably.

It is the same with standard ballasts; the sudden surge of electricity tends to shorten bulb life.
In addition, standard coil-type ballasts cause the bulb to “strobe,” or flicker.

Digital ballasts eliminate this wear and tear on the bulb by providing a flow of electricity that starts out at a low level, then increases energy flow as the bulb warms up and achieves full brightness.
Studies have shown that MH and LPS grow lights used with a digital ballast lost only 20 to 25% of their PAR luminescence (the wavelengths actually used by the plant) after one year; those used with a standard ballast had lost over twice at much over the same period.

It should be noted that digital ballasts vary in terms of quality and reliability.
In general, products made in Chinese factories tend to be of inferior quality, and should be avoided.
The best digital ballasts will run all types of grow lights, and be able to recognize the difference between metal halide, HPS or LED.
If a bulb is defective, damaged or incompatible, or if a short circuit is detected a well-manufactured, U.S.- made digital ballast will automatically shutdown before a safety hazard is created.

taken from:
Why are Digital Ballasts Better

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Dandaweedman

Ok, on Dec 4 2005 at 10:08 AM Mota posted that he had new projects in the works and 1 was PG-13 (pacific's version of the G-13)x sage and Bubba kush x Sage.
I'm not sure if it was S.A.G.E. or sage n sour he was posting about.

I have heard good things about the Sativa Afghani Genetic Equilibrium.
LOL that's longish.

Breeder's description...

Makes you want some, now doesn't it?

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Cerebro

yes, i certainly caught my eye at the time.
i was looking for some afghani genes.
the bubba kush x sage sounds worthy of some drool.
I'm pretty sure it was sage, not 'n sour, that he was working on.

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Dandaweedman

He does post about the sage n sour a bit as well. Guess a guy could always ask him...
Your looking for some real afghan? heh heh heh

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Cerebro

i want some deep chunk
but yeah, some real afghan would be

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Dandaweedman

Deep chunk would be so awesome. Seems like everyone who got some back in the day crossed it and is selling the results.
I think I saw a few packs of DC go on auction for over a thousand bucks. ROFL

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Cerebro

wowzorz funny what ppl pay for something fashionable.
not a high yielder either, hopefully someone gets a nice swt#3 cross dc.

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Dandaweedman

Well, I see it's on for $120 at auction now.

If you and I had access to the real breeder auctions that happen, we would think 1000 was cheap from what I have been able to find out.

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Dandaweedman

Sulphur Deficiency
Sulphur is one of the molecular building blocks for a number of proteins, hormones and vitamins, such as vitamin B1.
It appears in many important plant tissues, such as in seeds and in cellular moisture.
In the form of sulphate, sulphur fulfils an important role in the water equilibrium in the plant, as well as in the soil.

In the plant, sulphur is bound with proteins and into organic structures.
This makes it difficult for the plant to transport it to its younger tissues when a shortage occurs.
It would be expected that the earliest symptoms would first appear as a light green colouring in the young leaves.
However, in practice, we’ve repeatedly noticed that the symptoms were the most obvious in the older leaves.

Progression of symptoms:

• Strongly resembles a nitrogen deficiency; light green coloration in one or more large/older leaves.
• Strong purple coloration in the leaf stems (due to the production of anthocyan pigment).
• More leaves change colour, and the light green colour changes in places to deep yellow.
• When the shortage is extreme, the plant has lots of deep yellow leaves with purple stalks and leaf stems.
Additionally, growth and flowering are inhibited.

In potting soil, a sulphur deficiency can occur, just like a phosphorous deficiency when the pH is too high, or too much calcium is present.
As with phosphate, it is easier for the plant to take up sulphate at a lower pH level.
Check the pH of the medium, and lower it if necessary with sulphur, saltpetre, phosphor , commercial Ph down products or citric acid.

When there is a deficiency, the best thing to do is add Sulphur with the use of Epsom salts.

A sulphur deficiency is very rare in crops growing outdoors. Almost all ground- and surface water contains sulphate.

Higher concentrations of sulphur are not specifically harmful to cannabis.
But since they can increase the salt content of the water, they still adversely affect plant growth if the EC level goes beyond allowable limits.
In general, the plant takes up little sulphate from the soil moisture, so sulphur can accumulate there.
An excess of sulphate looks like salt damage; restricted growth and a dark coloured crop.
With higher concentrations (high EC), extra rinsing will be necessary.

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Dandaweedman

This is a female VB x R. It is the branchiest plant I have seen in a long while.
It's still in veg and horribly root bound, but I am wondering if it should go into flower as it is or top it and see what kind of bush ensues?
It is in a 2-gallon pot and quite short as all the VB x R have been so far.
Even the ones with very Sativa looking leaves stay decently short.

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Dandaweedman

Now can't leave you with such a ratty looking girl...

VB x R female in flower anyone?

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Dandaweedman

And for the ones who float that way...
Da boys we have liked so far.

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Dandaweedman

Note that the large fans have been removed.
The boys area is a little warmer than we like so the larger leaves are removed to allow the airflow to cool them better.
It's also easier to see what they are doing with themselves without having to move them much,
which later on in flower will save us a lot of cleaning time.

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