Odds n Sods - Page 2

Dandaweedman · 06-01-2007, 07:27 PM

This is the Viet Black clone that is going to be impregnated by the Romulan male.
The only problem with the VB is that you build up a tolerance. It takes a while, but you do. (3 months and it starts)
OK, that's all I had been smoking for those 3 months

Dandaweedman · 06-01-2007, 07:30 PM

Something I had laying around. It is NOT my own work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10K(from Overgrow)

Hello.
After responding to about one gazillion questions about the bubbling tub type cloning
device called the "Cheapo-Aero" cloning tub, I have put together what I hope will be
the final "once and for all"..."said everything I ever wanted to say and cant say no
more"..."last word" thread on this contraption.
Full up to date plans for building the cheapo tub along with how to operate it
successfully without failures (usually caused by fungus), along with some variations
some of the fine folks here have built.
First off, I'll show how simple they are to build, followed by how to prepare the donor
mom and the cuttings along with the operation of aero cloners. This applies to ALL
types of aero cloning...not just the cheapo-aero tub.
Finally, I'll show you some of the many aero cloners people have built, including the
aero tub that started it all...~Shabangs aero cloner, known by many as the water
pump mister type aero cloning tub (hibes box).
So if you have any questions that are not already answered in this thread, ask them
here and now or forever hold your tongue. heh heh
ps...please read it carefully before asking questions, as I think I've covered about
every question ever asked on the topic. This thread will close forever in two weeks.
Ok now...lets get it on...

Dandaweedman · 06-01-2007, 07:33 PM

still not mine

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10K(from Overgrow)

clockwise from top left:
1. One - good quality dual outlet airpump. I recommend the whisper 20/60 or the
pulsar four. both are @ $20.00
2. One - cheap pull up tripper type timer about @ $5.00
A short length of 1/2" rubber fuel line or vynil tubing.
Some fishtank airline or (preferred) some soft flexible vynil drip line (its marked
1/4"o.d.x.170" i.d.) for the air bubblers or the blue silicone airline.
3. One - Rubbermaid roughneck 1 gallon tub with lid @ $1.00
4. Two - aquaculture "bubble curtain" 10" bubble wands. @ $3.50 each
5. Assembly tools: drill bit(s), sharp box cutter knife, drip line punch and coupler
fittings (optional).
6. One - tube of Goop brand plumbers adhesive @ $4.00
7. One - Spray can of plasti dip black spray-on rubber coating @ $6.00
8. One - 7-1/2 watt fishbowl heater. Walmart @ $6.00
AF has great luck using the cheap heater. However please note...the small heater has
no thermostatic control, it must be connected to a timer and monitored to be sure you
dont overheat the water. If you can find a fully submersible thermostatic controlled
heater that will fit in the tub without getting in the way of the air bubbles, I highly
recommend doing so. There are several on the market which will mount along the
bottom of the tub, parallel to the bubble curtains, use 25 watts or smaller size.

Dandaweedman · 06-01-2007, 07:36 PM

Nope, nuh uh

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10K(from Overgrow)

The bubble curtains...
Are the only bubble device i'd recommend for bubble cloning. They are the least
restrictive to pump air thru, and because of their hollow tubular design they produce a
very uniform bubble coverage thruout the entire length of the wand. Plus they're
cheap.
Cut the bubble curtains to fit the length of the tub. Remove the end cap and cut
the wand to length using a sharp box cutter or razor blade knife. Replace endcaps.
Picture of two versions of the cheapo...
The cheapo works great with one wand or two. Lets use two wands. Note picture also
shows the location of the little heater installed. Use a dab of goop on the heaters
suction cup to hold it in place between the wands.
Glue in the wand holding clips...
The suction cups provided with the bubble curtains are prone to failure, when they
stop sticking the air wand floats to the surface and the bubbling action stops working,
causing failed clones. Pull the clips out of the suction cups and glue them in place to
the bottom of the tub.
Allow the glue to dry for at least two days to be sure its fully cured.
The rubbermaid one gallon tub has a ridge molded in about 2-1/2" from the top. This
will be the waterline.
For a nice sanitary assembly, punch two dripline couplers thru about a 1/4" above the
ridge for the airlines to exit the tub

Dandaweedman · 06-01-2007, 07:39 PM

To be continued...

Cerebro · 06-02-2007, 07:50 AM

So none of that is yours, right? Did I hear that right?
That Viet Black looks like she wants to break free, and veg for ages.
Kali?

Rubix · 06-02-2007, 07:53 AM

i bet you make hash out of them leaves eh?

Dandaweedman · 06-08-2007, 10:20 PM

I have been wanting Kali Mist for like forever. Bah whatever. You can only grow so many different strains right?

Dandaweedman · 06-08-2007, 10:34 PM

yep, you guessed it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 10K

Spray on the plasti dip black rubber coating...

The tub needs to be coated to prevent light from penetrating the tub and slowing down the rooting process. Normal spray paint does not stick and is too light transparent. The plasti dip sticks to the rubbermaid very well and with two or three coats fairly thick and very light proof. Spray and dry in a very well ventilated area.

You can get away with a few layers of duct tape, or a layer of "anti-corrosion pipe wrapping tape". But, the Plasti-Dip I've found to be the best solution for light proofing and neatness.

Drill the lid for the clone support tubes

underside of lid to show hole pattern used

For small clones, the 1/4" o.d. x .170 i.d. flexible drip line works fine for support tubes, but rooted clones can be tricky to remove from small the lid holes. Note tape tabs to keep the smaller supports from falling thru the lid, and numbering to identify the clones.

Optional larger support tube holes (recommended).

Using the 1/2" tubing for support tubes makes it much easier to remove the rooted clones from the lid. Number the holes to identify the clones later on. With either size holes, the *support tubes are cut to a maximum length of 1/2" and split down one side to be able to remove the rooted clones.

*It is important to have the support tubes cut short (@ 1/2" max). The original plans had longer tubes which caused problems on some cuttings.

You're all done building your Cheapo-Aero cloner

Happy cloning,
10k

Dandaweedman · 06-08-2007, 10:35 PM

I'll take a picure of the Viet tomorrow. She looks quite good

06-09-2007, 01:26 AM

awesome guide, Dan. Thanks for posting it. I'm going to copy it to the Sacred Scrolls for future reference.

How's the Romulan x Viet project coming along?

I just started up a Kali Mist x Bubba Kush. However, the talk is that it's not pure Kali Mist, rather Pure Kush x Kali Mist.

here's a pic of the "KM" used...

Dandaweedman · 06-09-2007, 07:56 PM

Do I have to say it?

Quote:

Contributed by: DaChronicKing
Submitted: 05-07-2003

Choosing the right surface for the walls of your grow room is very important, as up to 40% of your total yield comes from the edge,
and the right wall surface can increase the amount of light those plants receive by up to 30%!
Artificial lighting diminishes exponentially with distance, so it is important to "contain" as much of this light as possible, and direct it accordingly.
Reflective surfaces also help illuminate the lower portions of the garden, providing lower buds with light and heat energy.

To get the best results with your light and walls, it is important to get the walls as close as possible to your garden to ensure the least amount of light is wasted.
As a caveat, the percentages provided are only useful as a general guideline, as they present the range of reflectivity of the particular surfaces.
The high percentage presents the best possible circumstances for that material
(for example a 99% reflectivity rating for mylar sheeting would be under ideal conditions - no creases, completely flat, no discoloration, etc).

The best way to determine how well your grow room walls reflect light would be to purchase a light meter and measure your light directly;
then take an opaque board and hold it a few inches off one of your walls with the light meter below the board in such a fashion that the light reflects off the wall and onto the light meter.
You can then compare the difference between the two and determine a percentage from those numbers, the closer the two numbers are, the better your wall reflects light.
It is important that in both measurements, your light meter is the same distance from the light, otherwise your results will be skewed.

Also important to note is that radiant light energy refers to electromagnetic (EM) radiation with a wavelength between 400-700 nanometers (nm)
and radiant heat energy correlates to EM radiation with a wavelength between 800-2000nm.

Listed below are some of the most commonly used materials used for grow room walls:

Foylon:

A more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate.
Foylon is resistant to most solutions, won't tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.

A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost.
It has the ability to reflect about 95% of the light and approximately 85% of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in conjunction with folyon.

A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier nd reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it.
If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.

Mylar:

A highly reflective polyester film that comes in varying thickness, the most common being 1 and 2 mm thick.
The 2mm thick mylar while not quite as durable as the foylon, is fairly rugged.
The 1mm thick mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is quite difficult without damaging it in the process.
Both types of mylar are able to reflect approximately 92-97% reflective, giving it the potential to be more reflective than foylon,
but because foylon is more easily cleaned without damaging it as well as it being harder to crease, foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective.
Important to note is that mylar reflects radiant heat energy just as well as foylon (around 85%), so proper ventilation is necessary if mylar is used in your grow room.
Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.
The 1mm thick mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls.

C3 anti-detection film:

A specialized type of mylar that exhibits the same properties as the 2mm thick mylar,
but in addition to reflecting approximately 92-97% of the light, it also is 90% infrared proof, making your grow room all but invisible to IR scanning.
This can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

Flat white paint:

Self explanatory; a great option for large grow rooms or for people who are interested in a low maintenance wall.
Flat white paint has the ability to reflect between 75-85% of the light, and does not create hotspots.
Adding a fungicide is recommended when painting.

Glossy and eggshell whites not reflect light as efficiently as flat white.
Semi-gloss paint for example, only has the ability to reflect between 55-60% of the light.
Also important to remember when using paint...
any smears or blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is so care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls.
Titanium white paint is very reflective; however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its high cost.

Elastomere paint (info by furun)

A rubberized roofing paint with 90% reflection. Good for growboxes. Mildew resistant. Highly reflective.

Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating ~ $15.00 (1 Gallon)

Ultra high reflectivity
Forms a rubber-like blanket that expands and contracts
Adheres to almost any surface (very good on wood and metal)
Available @ www.lowes.com

White/Black plastic (also known as panda plastic or "poly"):

"Poly" is useful if you are setting up a temporary grow room or don?t want to damage the walls. Poly is easily cleaned.

The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark.
The white side is 75-90% reflective. Choose a 6 "mill" thickness of poly for maximum light blockage and duribility.

If this plastic is put too close to the light, you will obviously melt it so be careful!.
Panda plastic does not create hotspots. Poly can be attached to the walls by using carpenter?s nails or using tape glue or similar means.
This can be used as a cheap alternative to mylar if painting your grow room is out of the question.

Polystyrene Foam Sheeting (more commonly known as Styrofoam):

This is excellent for harsh environment growrooms (your attic for example),
provided you have a good ventilation system and a way to keep the temperatures from rising too high
(an a/c unit or similar) as it is an excellent insulator.

It is also a great material for use in a temporary setup or for use as a "travelling reflector" on a light mover, where weight is a concern.
It is approximately 75-85% light reflective so it is comparable to using a flat white paint.
Foam will not create hot spots. Rigid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a free standing wall or can be taped,
glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally being the most successful method.

Emergency Blankets:

These are ultra thin polyester blankets that are sold in most camping stores and are constructed
of a single layer of polyester film that is covered with a layer of vapor deposited aluminum.

It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin.
Holding it between you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with,
this coupled with the many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant amount of it reflectivity.
It is very easily creased as well which also detracts from its ability to reflect light.
And while it is reflects nearly 90% of radiant heat energy, it is only able to reflect around 70% of the light.

The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is very cheap and therefore easily replaced.
Emergency blankets can create hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps exist between it and your supporting wall.
The easiest way to attach this is to use tape (Aluminum or metal tape is recommended), as it tears very easily once it is cut or punctured.

Aluminum Foil:
Aluminum foil is no more than 55% reflective - if used, make sure that the dull side is the one that is used to reflect the light.
When it becomes creased its reflectivity is even lower (around 35%.)
It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting.
Attaching this to walls is a pain and usually using aluminum tape or glue is the best way.
This should only be used as a last resort, and even then its usefulness is questionable.

Dandaweedman · 06-09-2007, 07:57 PM

That's a nice pic MM. Kali mist is supposed to be the best of the Sativa, Sativa dom.

All in who smakes it right?

Cerebro · 06-10-2007, 07:50 AM

It's certainly a great sativa for the masses, I dont know anyone that doesnt like it, especially girls.

Dandaweedman · 06-11-2007, 07:26 PM

That's what I have heard also

quick one...

Dandaweedman · 06-14-2007, 10:06 PM

Speaking of Airbournes G-13...

Killa Queen version 1. Found a phenominal female a while back and had to aquire more version 1 seeds to get a daddy.
This is one of the babies

I love the way the lower leaves kinda curve. It's like that on them all.

Dandaweedman · 06-19-2007, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister Michigan_Militia

How's the Romulan x Viet project coming along?

Well, slower than I had wished truth be told.
I've flowered the Romulan boys under CFLs and they seem to be a tad slower than they usually run under a HID.
The eldest Romulan (#5) will be pollenated about 3 weeks before harvest, but we'll have to leave a few seeded lowers run long.
Smoking will tell the tail of course, but as far as growing is concerned, female #6 is tops so far.

Pics of one of the boys. The smaller one. The other one isn't coming out of the boys chamber short of a good trimming.

Dandaweedman · 06-19-2007, 09:16 PM

Another...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avis

Contributed by: Avis

Choosing a strain may seem overwhelming at first, but by answering a few simple questions, you will be able to narrow down the choices to strains that suit you best.

1.) Do you plan on growing INDOORS or OUTDOORS?

2.) Do you prefer the characteristics of an INDICA (i.e. short, compact, and high yielding)? Do you prefer the characteristics of a SATIVA (i.e. tall, high quality bud, and lower yielding)? Or would you prefer a mix between the two (i.e. 50/50 or 60/40 cross)?

3.) What type of stone/ high are you looking for? There are two basic types: the first is a "body stone" that knocks you down and holds you there, which is synonymous with INDICAS. A second type of stone is a trippy, cerebral high, often associated with SATIVAS.

How potent do you want it?
Different strains have their own unique effects (i.e. mellow, happy, paranoid, stupefying, clear and thought provoking, etc, etc?)

4.) What is your price range? How much are you willing to pay for seeds or clones?

5.) Is yield important to you? There are low, medium and high yielding cannabis plants. Does yield take precedence over quality?

6.) Is odor or smell a concern? Stealth growing requires low smelling strains. Some strains smell so strong they may be a security risk.

Is taste important for you? (Some strains have a unique flavor such as grapefruit, blueberry, etc)

7.) How long do you want to wait to harvest? Some are 6 week cash-croppers, some will take up to 14 weeks to flower. Many strains take 7-8 weeks.

8.) The last thing you should do when you have a few strains narrowed down is ask other growers. Find out what growers have experienced with it, etc.

Dandaweedman · 06-19-2007, 09:21 PM

An oldy but a goodie

Quote:

Originally Posted by Basil Fawlty

Have you ever looked at your lamp and thought, "Hmm, the bulb says 150W but surely this ballast thingy must use some power too"?
Well if you did, youre absolutely right.
Some people say that the rule of thumb is about 5-10% of the lamp's wattage.
While this may be true for some ballasts, it certainly isn't the case for all ballasts, particularly cheap HID (High Intensity Discharge) lamp ballasts.

We essentially want to know the ratio of the lamp wattage (W) to total input power (VA, in Watts):

This is called the "Power Factor".

A good ballast will have a power factor above 0.9 (i.e. more than 90% of the power it draws is used to power the bulb).
Cheaper (lower quality) ballasts often have power factors of 0.5 or less.
That's right, only half of the power gets to the bulb. So a 150W lamp would be drawing 300W of power.

Let's look at a real world example.
Here's a 150W HPS lamp made by Globe.
Notice they claim that this 150W HPS is equivalent to 9 incandescent bulbs for a saving of 89% in energy costs.
This lamp has been used for about 8 months (about 4-5000hrs).

OK, let's take our trusty multimeter and measure the voltage on our 120V line.

So now we've measured V = 121.6V. We now set our multimeter to measure AC current and plug the leads into the 10A slot on it.

WARNING! Never put the leads in the 10A slot for any purpose other than measuring current! Failure to heed this warning will at very least result in a tripped breaker and a blown fuse inside your multimeter, if you're lucky.

We then wire the leads in series with the black wires of the lamp. Let's turn on the lamp and see what the startup current looks like.

Holy cow! 4.4A! That means that it's using 121.6V x 4.4A = 535W! Let\'s figure out the power factor at startup.

Power Factor = W / VA = 150 / (121.6 x 4.4) = 0.28!

That means that only 28% of the power is being used by the lamp.
Let's not forget that it's normal for HID lamps to draw more juice at startup. Therefore, the lamp is probably drawing more than 150W and is skewing our power factor calculation.
So let's let it run for a while....

After a good fifteen minutes has gone by, the light is at maximum intensity. Let's have a look at the current flowing through the circuit now!

As we can see, it has indeed dropped. It's now drawing 3.06A or 121.6 x 3.06 = 372W! Let's figure out the power factor.

Power Factor = W / VA = 150 / (121.6 x 3.06) = 0.4

It's important to mention that as an HPS bulb ages, it draws more power.
I performed the same measurement when the bulb was almost new and it was drawing 2.6-2.7A at operating temperature then,
which would give something closer to a more realistic power factor of 0.5.

Since the power factor of the ballast doesn't change much over time, we can work backwards to determine how many watts the lamp is drawing part way through its life:

W = PF x V x A = 0.5 x 121.6 x 3.06 = 186W.

To answer our initial question, "How much power does my lamp really use?"

Bulb Wattage -> 150W
Power used at Startup -> 535W
Power used at Operating -> 372W

I think the most important thing to learn here is that it costs almost as much to run a 150W bulb on a low power factor ballast
as it does to run a 400W bulb with a high power factor ballast.

It should also be apparent that one should be careful about the assumptions they make when making calculations for the installation of electrical circuits.
You may think that you can safely put 7-8 of these 150W lamps on a 15A circuit but guess again!

Dandaweedman · 06-21-2007, 09:34 PM

A while ago I made a cross. California Orange x RomBolt (Romulan x Yumbolt).
Nice plant really. Hardy, good smoke and nice tasting with some even having the candy flavour of the mom.
The dad is a narcotic cross for sure. A heavy hitter with pain relief in mind states the breeder.

The Mom is a Cali-o as stated, and she had the most delicious candy taste, so good I gave away clones

Blah blah blah.

One of four

06-01-2007, 07:27 PM	#21 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	This is the Viet Black clone that is going to be impregnated by the Romulan male. The only problem with the VB is that you build up a tolerance. It takes a while, but you do. (3 months and it starts) OK, that's all I had been smoking for those 3 months Attached Images __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

06-01-2007, 07:39 PM	#25 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	To be continued... __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

06-08-2007, 10:20 PM	#28 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	I have been wanting Kali Mist for like forever. Bah whatever. You can only grow so many different strains right? __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

06-08-2007, 10:35 PM	#30 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	I'll take a picure of the Viet tomorrow. She looks quite good __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

06-09-2007, 01:26 AM	#31 (permalink)
Michigan_Militia Guest Posts: n/a	awesome guide, Dan. Thanks for posting it. I'm going to copy it to the Sacred Scrolls for future reference. How's the Romulan x Viet project coming along? I just started up a Kali Mist x Bubba Kush. However, the talk is that it's not pure Kali Mist, rather Pure Kush x Kali Mist. here's a pic of the "KM" used... Last edited by Michigan_Militia; 06-09-2007 at 01:37 AM.

06-09-2007, 07:57 PM	#33 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	That's a nice pic MM. Kali mist is supposed to be the best of the Sativa, Sativa dom. All in who smakes it right? __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

06-11-2007, 07:26 PM	#35 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	That's what I have heard also quick one... Attached Images __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

06-14-2007, 10:06 PM	#36 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	Speaking of Airbournes G-13... Killa Queen version 1. Found a phenominal female a while back and had to aquire more version 1 seeds to get a daddy. This is one of the babies I love the way the lower leaves kinda curve. It's like that on them all. Attached Images __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

06-21-2007, 09:34 PM	#40 (permalink)
Dandaweedman Old School Join Date: May 2004 Location: At the Cabana Posts: 7,414 Thanks: 699 Thanked 760 Times in 613 Posts	A while ago I made a cross. California Orange x RomBolt (Romulan x Yumbolt). Nice plant really. Hardy, good smoke and nice tasting with some even having the candy flavour of the mom. The dad is a narcotic cross for sure. A heavy hitter with pain relief in mind states the breeder. The Mom is a Cali-o as stated, and she had the most delicious candy taste, so good I gave away clones Blah blah blah. One of four Attached Images __________________ Hanging in the Cabana

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode