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#101 (permalink) |
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Yahookan
Join Date: Sep 2006
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^ yep, it works, some prefer it to the rooting gel/powder.
Just an update on the clones , sorry it`s not a better shot.
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#102 (permalink) |
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Stanley Green Thumb
Join Date: Nov 2008
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damn. good shit. lookin great fg. is a lady at 46 days flowering too old to clone?
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#103 (permalink) |
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Yahookan
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Cheers braindead
.No you can clone a plant just about however far in flower it just takes longer the further into flower. Some strains may respond strangely if you take clones too far into flower. A friend of mine took clones from a mom in flower. They rooted but then autoflowered before he could veg them so he ended up with tiny bonsai plants with tiny buds. I can`t remember what strain that was. Ruderalis are autoflowering by nature (I think, never messed with them myself) and sativas can show autoflowering tendencies. A good indica or an indica sativa hybrid should be ok.
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#104 (permalink) |
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Stanley Green Thumb
Join Date: Nov 2008
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thanks for the info man. them clones are fuckinbeautiful. ima cut some clones in the next few days n ill post some pics for opinions.
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" am i supposed to feel something now? I dont feel high. . Am i high?... I dont feel high.. The sun... ah.. I dont feel high." peter |
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#106 (permalink) |
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Stanley Green Thumb
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that plastic box u got the clones in in the beginning. propogator or whatever? how much that cost? or can u make one
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" am i supposed to feel something now? I dont feel high. . Am i high?... I dont feel high.. The sun... ah.. I dont feel high." peter |
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#107 (permalink) | |
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Yahookan
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Quote:
Braindead- I bought the propagator from a garden centre, it was about £5, you could make one, all it needs to do is keep humidity in and let a bit of light in. You can get a heater matt as well which will help you keep them at a good temperature. A min/max hygrometer/thermometer is handy so you know how warm and humid things are. I have cloned successfuly many times without any of the above, they just make things easier. Dunno what everyone thinks about the ideal temp and humidity- probly about 25C and 90%. Any second opinions?
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#108 (permalink) |
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I'm weak, sue me!
Join Date: Apr 2009
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I had a horrible ratio when cloning at first due to the clones being way too small. Wait a little longer for the bigger clones to develop with good humidity for the first 2 days (I could only get up to 80-85% but it worked) and then a 2 week period for me sufficed with me filling my heat tray (used before in the kitchen to cook)of water once a day, also a plastic sheet with holes held over a foot grill that is placed over the heat tray (yes formerly to wipe the mud off your shoes before walking in someone's house). Then the clones are placed on top the plastic sheet that has small holes in it (that way you don't boil your clones with too much steam). A hood to keep the humidity in. This makeshift humidity tent can be a clear container (storage container that sits on top of the plastic and foot grill. I ran an old solar power shower (bag of water basically with a pipe fitting under the grill and opened it when the tray neede filing.
I'm sure there are millions of other ways to do this too. Recap: Heat tray (on minimum) Foot grill Plastic sheet with holes in it. old clear storage container turned upside down solar power shower to run water into heat tray ***** one more thing when using a cloning hormone I great success from dipping in a liquid form and then dipping it in the powder format and I had 100% success from doing this. Happy cloning! |
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#109 (permalink) |
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Yahookan
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One last pic nearing harvest.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to farmergiles For This Useful Post: | Cerebro (05-15-2009), Pharm Girl (05-15-2009) |
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#110 (permalink) | |
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I'm weak, sue me!
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Quote:
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#111 (permalink) |
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Yahookan
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Makes sense to decrease the humidity, it will encourage them to form roots.
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#112 (permalink) |
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Cold School
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great thread farmer! quick couple of questions tho. ive been growing from seed for years, but i would like to get into cloning. i have several plants growing out now, and they are just starting to show alternating nodes. well, i was wondering about where to take the cuttings while being able to let the branch of the mother plant grow two shoots in the place of the one i snipped off. basically like topping the plant, where you get two tops instead of one. my question is if i take the cutting at an alternating node, will it still split off into two tops, or do you have to take the cutting from a node where the leaf sets are opposite one another, or does it matter? also, if i was to take a cutting at an alternating node, will it basically take the growth tip off of the branch, thereby "killing" it? i drew a figure in ms paint to hopefully show you guys and gals what i mean. please excuse the crudeness of it, if i had a camera, i wouldve just taken a photo of what i was talking about. thanks ppl!
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#113 (permalink) |
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Yahookan
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That is a very good question.
I`ve been reading up on breeding recently and the consensus seems to be that barring mutations (through UV light or whatever) the genetics of the plant remain unchanged. So one cutting is as good as another. I observe plants which show diternate (that`s not a recognised word and I would thank anyone who provided the right word) branching from seed yet show alternate branching (like you describe) from cuttings. I also experience the issue you describe.
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#114 (permalink) |
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Yahookan
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Or to put it another way I hope Dan or Cerebro or Slunt or PG picks up this hot potato.
If you top the plant it will double the bud sites but also the leafiness. Edit that drawing is awesome it`s going in the special forum .
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Last edited by farmergiles; 05-30-2009 at 04:55 PM. |
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#115 (permalink) |
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Cold School
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![]() thanks, farmer. and thanks for responding so quick. what i was thinking is that if it was possible, maybe a person could let their mother veg a little longer than needed, and take cuttings from the bottom of the plant one node up from the main stem rather than at the main stem (or any branch for that matter, at any point of growth) so in essence, any time you go back to take more cuttings, you'll have more sites to take cuttings from. potentially, any cutting you take from any branch would in essence create two more sites to take cuttings from down the road. but this is all just speculation on my part and im probably missing something in my train of thought. if it doesnt pan out this way, im just going to practice "mother rotation" like you do.
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![]() Last edited by cantSEEme; 05-30-2009 at 05:10 PM. |
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#116 (permalink) |
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Yahookan
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I do know that knowledgeable breeders do take stock clones from the bottom of the plant.
I have heard of issues with diploidy which I don`t as yet understand . (help!)As far as I do understand the genotype of a plants should be unaffected by the site a clone is taken from. However I have experienced the way a plant grown from seed will often show diternate (my word- see above) or symmetrical growth whereas a cutting will show alternate branching. This is surely an expression of phenotype rather than genotype.
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#117 (permalink) |
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Bush Regenerator
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yes, i'm with you on this one fg, expression of phenotypes + environmental factors (including timing of the cut) will effect appearance, but genotype will be no different.
one cut doesn't create new growth, the new growth will come anyway. a cutting will promote growth over two area, instead on one though. but if you've ever seen a plant that has had many cuttings taken, it's no big bush, more like a single bud on a stick. |
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#118 (permalink) |
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YaHookan
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As far as the air bubble thing, I think it refers to a bubble of air inside the stem. I have heard when you cut a flower arrangement like long stem roses or something it is best to actually do the cut underwater in a sink or something. This is because the liquid (water) inside the stem is under tension. When we cut the stem at the bottom or where ever, this tension acts like a rubber band (stretched a little) the internal stem water springs up the stem a bit. This creates an "air bubble" inside the stem at and just above the place you cut. Of course, water and nutrients cannot pass by the air bubble and the rose or whatever "dies" more quickly.
Ok, again, I know this is so for flowers. They always say to cut off the bottom part of the stem before you place them in a vase - this is too eliminate the scab of dried material at the end of the steam from the florist's cut that has dried. But, I am told this pre-vasing cut is best done underwater to keep the stem fully loaded. You can then take the flower out of the water with no air bubble. Seems logical given the above one should re-cut a 1/4 inch or so from the clone underwater, scrape up the bottom of the stem end a bit to encourage root development, then use the rooting hormone. |
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#119 (permalink) | |
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Yahookan
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Post Script
Quote:
Assuming variation of phenotype according to environment, maybe if you take a clone of a cabinet dwelling plant this clone will already tend towards an indoor phenotype giving it a headstart over a plant grown from seed. Also like Dan says you probably will get better at running this strain each time. And the fact that the clone is definitely well into preflowering.
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Last edited by farmergiles; 10-22-2009 at 08:19 AM. |
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