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Old 02-23-2011, 08:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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how long to grow indoors before transplanting, and when?

Hello there,

this is going to be my first crack at this.

I'm planning to get some plants started indoors then transplant them outside.

How long should I keep the plants indoors before it's safe to transplant?

I had a farmer with many years of experience tell me that for tender crops, I'm not safe (from frost) until May 15th (Ohio, if that's relevant). This seems a bit late to me. What do you guys think of this? If I get them out a little earlier is pot resilient enough to stand a little frost or should I go with this guy's date (he's not wrong).

I realize this seems like a noob question that's probably been asked fifty times and should be googled but I'm really having problems finding a straight answer from google on this one.

One more question for later down the road: I have a couple places in mind to dry, but I'm worried about the smell tipping the neighbors off... is there anyway to dry and cure (or just dry, I think i could live without curing maybe) without putting off too much of an aroma (odor, lol)?

Last edited by merockstar420; 02-23-2011 at 09:08 PM. Reason: adding more questions
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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last year i put seeds out on 4-20, and ended up with, a 6.5 footer, this was her just before she started to flower. most people who do indoors then switch to outdoors are trying to grow some trees. as for smell........ i always just dried it in my indoor room. good luck, whats strains are ya starting?
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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but I'm worried about the smell tipping the neighbors off...
hey there ohio grower.

check out this info ...

Marijuana - Ohio Drug Threat Assessment

then, check out the replies


Maturation

The maturation of Cannabis is normally annual and its timing is influenced by the age of the plant, changes in photoperiod, and other environmental conditions. When a plant reaches an adequate age for flowering (about two months) and the nights lengthen following the summer solstice (June 21-22), flowering begins. This is the triggering of the reproductive phase of the life cycle which is followed by senescence and eventual death. The leaves of Cannabis plants form fewer leaflets during flowering until the floral clusters are formed of trileaflet and mono-leaflet leaves. This is a reversal of the heteroblastic (variously shaped) trend of increased leaflet number through the pre-floral stage.

The staminate (males) and pistillate (females) sexes of the same strain mature at different rates. Staminate plants are usually the first to begin flowering and releasing pollen. In fact, much pollen is released when the pistillate plants show only a few pairs of primordial flowers. It would seem more effective for the staminate plant to release pollen when the pistillate plants are in heavy flower to ensure good seed production. Upon deeper investigation, however, it becomes obvious that early pollination is advantageous to survival. Pollinations that take place early form seeds that ripen in the warm days of summer when the pistillate plant is healthy and there is less chance of frost damage or predation by herbivores. If conditions are favorable, the staminate plant will continue to produce pollen for some time and will also fertilize many new pistillate flowers as they appear. After a month or more of shedding pollen the staminate plants enter senescence. This period is marked by the yellowing and dropping of the foliage leaves, followed by diminished flower and pollen production. Eventually, all the leaves drop, and the spent, lifeless stamens hang in the breeze until fungi and bacteria return them to the soil.

Pistillate plants continue to develop up to three months longer as they mature seeds. As the calyxes of the first flowers to be pollinated dry out, each releases a single seed which falls to the ground. Since new pistillate flowers are continually produced and fertilized, there are nearly always seeds ranging in maturity from freshly fertilized ovules to large, dark, mature seeds. In this way the plant is able to take advantage of favorable conditions throughout several months. The effectiveness of this type of reproduction is demonstrated by the spread of escaped Cannabis strains in the midwestern United States. In these areas Can nabis abounds and multiplies each year, through the timely dehiscence of millions of pollen grains and the fertilization of thousands of pistillate flowers, resulting in thousands of viable seeds from each pistillate plant. As the pistillate plant senesces, the leaves turn yellow and drop, along with the remaining mature seeds. The rest of the plant eventually dies and decomposes.

Although the staminate plants begin to release pollen before the pistillate plant has begun to form floral clusters, pistillate plants actually differentiate sexually and form a few viable flowers long before most of the staminate plants begin to release pollen. This ensures that the first pollen released has a chance to fertilize at least a few flowers and produce seeds. The production of prominent pistils makes pistillate plants the first to be recognizable in a crop, so early selection of seed-parents is quite easy. Often the primordia of staminate plants first appear as vegetative growth at the nodes along the main stalk and do not differentiate flowers for several weeks. Pistillate plants also may develop vegetative growth in place of the usual primordial calyxes and this growth makes staminate plants indistinguishable from pistillate plants for some time. This is often frustrating to sinsemilla Cannabis cultivators, since the staminate plants that are hesitant to differentiate sex take up valuable space that could be utilized by pistillate plants. Also, juvenile pistillate plants are occasionally mistaken for staminate plants if they are slow to form calyxes, since vegetative growth at the nodes could appear to be staminate primordia.
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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May 15th sounds about right for Ohio. There are ways to manipulate that date though. Good luck to ya.
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Marijuana Botany - Chapter 4 - Maturation and Harvesting of Cannabis

very informative, and a bit technical

I'm in pittsburgh by the way.

this year, mid april early may would be the better time to outdoor your plants.

It's the possibility of frost, most strains don't like frost - however - if your "in the valley" you may be ok with early april.

A word to the wise...outdoor females (most) will start to stink way before flowering, and the paranoia of the odor is the reason some growers have been known to harvest too early.

this is a generalization because a few strains have significantly lower odor, I've only grown 1...It was Northern Lights #5 (a low odor ,shorter hybrid of N.L.)
that still smelled, but it was a fruity smell so it was cool.

strong sativas will stink more , like Swazi red beard is truely "skunk".

in the back yard, on a hot day, near maturation...your neighbors most likely will be saying "there's a skunk in da hood"
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Cannabis Growing indoors or outdoors

^ you might like this...INDOORS & OUTDOORS - CONSTANT HARVEST STRATEGY

In winter, indoor space is used to start new seedlings or cuttings to be placed outside in the spring, using natural sunlight to ripen the plants. This routine will provide at least 3 outdoor/greenhouse harvests per year. If more space is available to constantly be starting indoors and flowering 2nd harvest plants outdoors, harvests are possible every 60 days in many areas, with a small indoor harvest in the winter as a possibility as well.

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Old 02-24-2011, 09:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the responses.

vapored: I don't know what strain it will just be seeds from some nice commersh that got me high. I figure the quality will go up since I'm doing it myself.

Roach I'm about to go read those links you provided thoroughly. I already went to the justice.gov one's but didn't see any comments.

Shit is scary but fuck it, Libyans can die for freedom, I can grow a bit for it.

Right now I'm thinking if I get the seeds started three weeks before my intended plant date that should give them enough time to get strong enough to survive the transition to nature, right?
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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i would say 4 weeks to be really sure, but 3 weeks isnt unreasonable.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:36 AM   #9 (permalink)
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veda,,

I'll be away from puter for some time.

could you explain about loose packing soil, drainage, water schedule (so they/he/she don't drown em..etc.)...basics

to often "guides" just jump into ph...nutes etc.

thx.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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well gosh, i dont suppose we ought to re post an entire grow guide in every thread of anyone who asks "dude how do i grow my plants?"

but i would like to give just a few tips and warnings which i wish someone had given me back when i first started growing (in no particular order)

over watering is the number one noob mistake. young seedlings want soil that is moist not wet, and older plants want oxygen to their roots between rains. it is best to water on a regular schedule, letting the soil dry out but not making the plant droop over with thirstyness before watering again. a little water ever day is better than a soak every three days.

dont look at your plants too much. ppl just beginning want to hang out with their plants, stare at them, breathe on them, and worry about every spot or slightly mis-shaped leaf.
but given a good growing environment, the plants dont need a lot of managing or special potions or emergency fixes for imagined soil deficiencies. they are weeds. just let them grow.

the plants dont need or want fertilizers the first two weeks of their life. after that, if you decide to use some kind of plant food, you must follow the directions, and dont give in to thinking that if a little is good, more must be better. cuz it isnt.

i had a couple more but i forget what they were right now
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
before my intended plant date that should give them enough time to get strong enough to survive the transition to nature, right?
The transition to nature can shock a plant and can even kill them. As a rule I bring the young plants out to the bush but I put them inside a clear plastic shelter for a few days to a week or so...this gives the babies a chance to get used to their new environment...with all those scary sounds, cold nights they stand a better chance of survival by easing their transition. Be sure to put human hair, dog hair and moth balls near the new outdoor enclosure to deter critters, they smell the plants and they smell you...
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I want to do this with as few visits to the grow site as possible. So I probably won't be watering them once they are outside, unless maybe its been super hot for like 3 weeks straight, with no rain.

I don't see myself setting up anything fancy for irrigation. Just want to have a few plots way out in the middle of BFE. I haven't actually paid much mind to fertilizer either, just how necessary is that?

Hair sounds like a bad idea to me because what if the cops come around and find my DNA?

I wouldn't expect anyone to write a guide for me, I've done plenty of perusing. I'm just trying to come up with a more simplified approach to it all for a first timer. I figure it can't be that hard to do.

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Old 02-24-2011, 01:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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those dna cops are the worst

a "guerilla grow" is what your doing then.

you should be good to go with the above info.

you must know someone with a cat or dog (preferably cat), you know the kind of pet who's poopy has a predator smell that will scare wabbits away (chipmunks and squirels will actually pull young plants right out of the ground and eat the roots)...and I've found this is also not good for young plants

you can buy tiger pee, but used cat litter works just as well.


lol...BFE

I know 'fur shore' you're from ohio now.

good luck, and happy growing
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i dont suppose we ought to re post an entire grow guide in every thread
I think that was aimed @ me.lol

no worries, knowledge is free and abundant.

growers are as different in levels of experience and 'operation' as there are strains.

I've found no guides short of the grow bible I used to distribute, that covers the getting started part of growing as well.

Ed Rosenthal's "Grow Bible"

it's everywhere.

Ed Rosenthal's Marijuana Grower's Handbook
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Old 02-24-2011, 07:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by v3d4 View Post
it is best to water on a regular schedule, letting the soil dry out but not making the plant droop over with thirstyness before watering again. a little water ever day is better than a soak every three days.
Yeah. I hate that droop. I've taken to watering more frequently because I can never catch that point right before the droop ocurs. I'd rather see the proud look instead and I can't help but think that any droop would be unneeded stress. I water until I see runoff and adjust accordingly.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:10 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Roach View Post
hey there ohio grower.

check out this info ...

Marijuana - Ohio Drug Threat Assessment

then, check out the replies
What a load of bull-shit.
Quote:
Marijuana abuse normally is not tied to violent behavior. However, ADAM statistics for 1997 through 1999 in Cleveland reveal that of males and females arrested for a violent offense a higher percentage tested positive for marijuana than for cocaine.
Well, durrr, considering coke can be out of your system in 24 hour as weed can take weeks! That is just one reason I hate drug tests and dumb-ass analysis like this one. They just get the harmless mj users as opposed to people who use harmful drugs such as crack, H, or even alcohol to excess. Fucking stupid. I bet 90% of those people used alcohol to excess, for example.

Sorry for the de-rail. . .
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Old 02-25-2011, 03:24 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
you can buy tiger pee, but used cat litter works just as well
.

Tiger pee? We have recipes posted and none of them mention cat hair or tiger pee.
They mention wood ashes, moth balls, human pee......

As far as DNA goes....only idiots would use their own hair. Barbershops and Beauty Salons have shit loads of that stuff!
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks guys I'll go check out the grow bible.
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:42 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Honestly, I would spend my time and energy preparing the sites now. Then about the 1st of May (depending on the extended forecast for your area), I'd just plop the seeds in the ground.

The smell won't attract neighbors if there are no neighbors close by. I'd be more worried about thievery. There are no good spots outdoors in the city. Just my opinion.
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:47 AM   #20 (permalink)
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mothernature

sorry to go off subject, but what the hell is your avatar, i think i know but its bugged me ever since i saw it the first time.

p.s. pham girl knows her shit so stick with her "natural" ways of doing things, shes helped me out a ton in the past!!
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